TOPIC:

On my 1976 KZ400S I have adjusted the clutch cable per the manual yet I still barely have any usable clutch action range. Only the first few centimeters of pull on the clutch is my working range, this obviously makes it extremely difficult to shift. Any suggestion on what's going wrong here?

I haven't replaced the clutch cable yet as I was trying to save some cash but that may be the solution. I also clean up the clutch return mechanism and lost the original clutch return spring, I replaced it with a different spring. Maybe that's the issue? I was having these same problems before I touched the clutch though.

So what did you come up with?
Steve

I would suspect the throw-out assembly (behind the left side cover) is the problem. It was on my 750 twin. If the cable is good and properly adjusted, that is the next likely cause.

This part:

I will try a new clutch cable and take apart the clutch return mech and clean it more thoroughly this time. Could the adjustment on the left side cover need tightened up some more?

Does it look like the one above or is it the ball and ramp style? It's called the EZ pull. It works great but if misadjusted you will hear a pop and no clutch. It has to be just right. Grease it well too.
Steve

It looks like the one above. Part number 6 in the diagram is metal and was slightly rusted. I did what I could to clean both part 4 and 6 with brake cleaner and a tooth brush and greased them up really well. When testing the action with just those two pieces out it felt as though it was catching right at the beginning of the twist

Describe the process you used to adjust the helix (part #2). And make sure you grease the crap out of 4 and 6 before assembly. Marine grease is a great option for parts like this.

You should be loosening up the lock nut, and then tightening #2 until you feel resistance, and then backing off about 1/8 turn or so before tightening down the lock nut. Before making this adjustment you should turn in the cable adjusters first of course.

That is the procedure I used. Then tightened up most the cable slack with the middle adjuster and the rest with the handle barrel adjuster

The worm gear is hard to get right on mine. You start it at the farthest groove you can, then twist it in. It could also be clutch plates sticking if it won't fully disengage.
Steve

ZeffRides wrote: That is the procedure I used. Then tightened up most the cable slack with the middle adjuster and the rest with the handle barrel adjuster

If you adjust the helix correctly you shouldn't have to touch those other adjusters. I'd go back and try again at the helix, after you turn in the cable adjusters. At most you should only have to turn the cable adjuster a very minor amount.

Nessism wrote:

ZeffRides wrote: That is the procedure I used. Then tightened up most the cable slack with the middle adjuster and the rest with the handle barrel adjuster

If you adjust the helix correctly you shouldn't have to touch those other adjusters. I'd go back and try again at the helix, after you turn in the cable adjusters. At most you should only have to turn the cable adjuster a very minor amount.

That depends on how much the cable has stretched also.


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Swest, I bet that's it. I totally forgot about that part, I bet I was off on where I started that gear. I'm out of town for the weekend so I'll try changing the position on that to see if it helps.