TOPIC:

Also if it does miss long enough, if you a infrared thermometer you could read the temp of each pipe coming out of the head. If you don't have one, you could use a bottle of water and see which one sizzles and which ones don't or don't sizzle as much as the others. Then as suggested swap the coils around and see if the problem follows or not. Good luck

...Have you inspected the plugs? They will tell you themselves what cylinder is, or isn't firing properly. If two are firing properly and two are not, check and see if the two that aren't are coming from the same coil. If so, it could be a bad coil.

...But, it could also be a bad condenser. Ed hit this one, too. But, he called them capacitors. I call them condensers. Six of one, half dozen of the other. A bad condenser will give you the same kind of problem, until it craps out completely. Then you're running on just 2, unless the other one does the same. Then you're toast. Happened to me last year on the 650. Two cylinder were intermittently cutting in and out for two days. I thought it was some bad gas at first, until the two crapped out completely and all at once.

...Ed is also right about the point being good for 5,000 miles. That's IF you use point lube on that little felt piece that comes on the points. It doesn't hurt to put a little point lube on the backside of the rubbing block, either. Without lube, that block wears down very fast and your points begin to close, causing your motor to run like crap. And by the looks of your point pic, that distributor shaft is as dry as a bone in the desert! Take a little carb cleaner on a rag and clean that cam surface off and make sure you lube those points. Not lubing them will also make that distributor/cam shaft wear down as well after a while.

...There also a possibility that your tank accumulated some moisture in it over the winter. You might want to check the bowls and tank for water.

Thanx krazy! All good "points" (hee) you are also correct in that they are called "condensers" I have noticed that ed often very kindly uses they same terminology as the poster to whom he is responding(even when they are not entirely accurate, ha!) I will have to own THAT one! Plugs were pretty uniformly fouled...looked rich as heck to me. Good eye on the points lube, I will pick some up right away! I may have to try swapping in my old "condensers" as long as I don't have to break that dern plate loose......I fought the timing forever until I took it out to caton's bike shop and finally had it set correctly...I'm a newb, I freely admit it...but I am getting better, thanks to this board! I just poured 1/2 can of seafoam in...she seemed to like it last year...lotsa good feedback...thanx, all!

KraZyRIDER - THANKS!

Condensors is correct!! I wrote capacitors while I had something else on my mind. My fault entirely. I need to go back and proof read my postings, especially when I'm distracted.

One note, the Kawasaki Service Manual does use the term capacitor when referring to the condensors, so technically Grumpy Ole Artist isn't incorrect, but I normally call them condensors as that is the term most folks, including me, use when referring to points and condensors.

Thanks again! Ed

650ed wrote: KraZyRIDER - THANKS!

Condensors is correct!! I wrote capacitors while I had something else on my mind. My fault entirely. I need to go back and proof read my postings, especially when I'm distracted.

One note, the Kawasaki Service Manual does use the term capacitor when referring to the condensors, so technically Grumpy Ole Artist isn't incorrect, but I normally call them condensors as that is the term most folks, including me, use when referring to points and condensors.

Thanks again! Ed

...Capacitor is also correct, Ed. Condenser is just a more common term, especially here in the US. I think the Japanese just like using the term, capacitor.

...A la the old '69 Mach III.

Man, it's "one step at a time" with me, ain't it? Definitely getting no heat on 2 & 3 exhaust pipes. (These "point & shoot" digital thermometers are pretty cool!) Anyhoo, unless I am missing something, the plug wires on coil for 2&3 are shorter than the wires for 1 & 4 coil...how do I "swap" them if I can't connect all 4 wires? ?could I swap the green & black wires on caps?? Thanx! ride safe

They may reach if you temporarily swap which side of the frame the coils are on. Mine did when I was troubleshooting a problem. Ed

I Thought i understood what you meant, but , looking at it, am pretty sure that they will be too short, but if ya don't go, you'll never know...and ed says "go". Hokayj, i give try. Wish luck. Ugh! Lol, what about swapping the green and black condenser wires at connectors under airbox? Probably blow something up, I'll bet...just wondering...hmmmm...thanx!

Well, at least I tried! #2 & #3 plug wires are about 2.5 " too short to physically swap coils side to side to troubleshoot...to further confound my efforts, my old timing assembly has gone to parts unknown! So before I spend sheckles I really don't have on a pair of green coils, plug wires & caps, and some new condensers, any additional thoughts from the peanut gallery as to how best to proceed with troubleshooting? Mebbe just try new condensers first? As always, thanx! Ride safe!

Grumpy Ole Artist wrote: Well, at least I tried! #2 & #3 plug wires are about 2.5 " too short to physically swap coils side to side to troubleshoot...to further confound my efforts, my old timing assembly has gone to parts unknown! So before I spend sheckles I really don't have on a pair of green coils, plug wires & caps, and some new condensers, any additional thoughts from the peanut gallery as to how best to proceed with troubleshooting? Mebbe just try new condensers first? As always, thanx! Ride safe!

...If you really don't have the equipment to check things properly, new points and condensers would definitely be the cheapest way to go. Save the old parts, just in case the new show no improvement.

...Of course, if you've got the money, replacing the old coils and wires could only have a positive affect. Once you square away the problem.

...Did you ever check the charging output at high revs? I should have read more carefully what everyone said. But, if you are not putting out enough voltage at speed, that could also be a problem. Wish I was in front of this bike, it would be a lot easier!

...Did anyone mention to spray down the wires and coils with a spray bottle of water when the bike is running? That's the fastest way to check for bad wires and leaky coils. Just make sure you don't spray things down with any flammable liquids. That's the fastest way to burn things to the ground.

Hey KraZyRIDER...I have basic hand tools, and a cheap azz multimeter, but obviously, troubleshooting is not my strong suit! Definitely better at riding than wrenching, but I am learning ! LOL! My buddy Mike texted me late last night, (he is a 2nd shifter) he went out & rooted in his garage after work, and found my original timing plate assbly, so I will attempt to swap out condensers tonight...I will certainly try the water spritz trick, and see if anything exciting happens. Re:High rpm charging output, the problem is present from idle on up....(not sure if that matters, but...) And yeah, I wish you were standing in front of it too! LOL! Thanx, all! ride safe!

Well I have thrown every part I can think of at her...new dyna 5 ohm coils, condensers, plugs, wires & plug caps...have gone from lurching along on two cylinders to no fire nowhere....first condenser swap, I made the mistake of completely removing small nuts at base of point springs holding green/black wires. Will NOT do THAT again! Finally got all the little pieces back in place( I hope) bought a better multimeter...should I have continuity across the green & black connections? Black lead to black wire...red lead to plate or green lead have continuity...again, no spark ANYWHERE now...WTF have I done?