TOPIC:

it seems like Mafed and I have the same problem.

the question I have is this: for the timing mark, do I line up the mark centered on the T or do I line it up with the mark just to the right of the T?

IowaKZ wrote:

it seems like Mafed and I have the same problem.

the question I have is this: for the timing mark, do I line up the mark centered on the T or do I line it up with the mark just to the right of the T?

On the later model advancer, T mark is the | centered on the T.

Immediately to the T's right is the numeral 1 ("one" as in "uno").

See image below.

Good Luck!

[Click on image to enhance view]

ok, I found out 2 things:

1. I was using the T instead of the small mark to the right of the T (the mark to the right is indicated in my book)

2. I was using the wrong chain pin to start my 28 count. I started with the pin on the exhaust mark so I only ended up with 27 links.

So I got it all set right, started it up and it ran, but very very rough. Doesn't sound even remotely right.

Question 1: how much damage did I do by having it off set by 1 pin.
Question 2: even though the book says the mark after the T, could the fire be on the T? My advancer does not look like either in the picture below. It has a T, then a mark, then the F and another mark.

Here's the photo in KHI's official KZ1000 Motorcycle Service Manual covering 1977~1979.

The T mark is the | centered on the T. That's a | and not a 1 .

I enhanced the photo for clarity.

Perhaps the advancer was again modified after 1979.

Good Luck!

IowaKZ wrote:

Question 1: how much damage did I do by having it off set by 1 pin.

I'd be amazed if it did any. I was adjusting the valves on mine once and had the cam chain tensioner off and when I was turning it, the chain managed to jump a link. Maybe it had kinked or whatever, but it was right on, I was turning it and heard it shift and then it was a link off. I was turning it over and it did no harm at all.

Check the compression if you are concerned. Only thing bad could be a bent valve and it will have low compression if it is.

"So I got it all set right, started it up and it ran, but very very rough. Doesn't sound even remotely right."...

In using a Timing light and following the procedure, @ idle, does the advancer F mark match the case mark?

@ 2900-3100rpm does the advance mark match the case mark?

When you set this all up, you did have the crank rotated where 1/4 was TDC first?

Are you 100% positive you have the correct coil spark plug wires to the correct plugs?

Example: left coil normally for cylinders 1 & 4, two outer cylinders.

I was out of town yesterday do I didn't get a chance to look at it.

I'm going to check the compression first thing to see if I messed anything up.

I still might have something off on the timing. I'm pretty sure I have the plug wires right because they are all numbered. All cylinders are firing because the exhaust get's hot on all 4.

thanks again for all your support!

I just thought of something else, but I didn't mention it before because I didn't think it was related. I have a 4-1 Mac that does not fit real well. My intention was to get the bike running and then work on the fit. In the past, I have had to run with 2 copper washers to get it to seal.

Is this bad fit and some leaking exhaust contributing to the rough running, no idle?

ok, found the issue: No compression on #2 and #3.

before this whole mess I had compressions in the 145-150 range. Now after this, I am 95, 70, 85, 130 on 1,2,3,4.

I am hoping against hope that I did a poor job of lapping the valves and I didn't bend them by being out.

One thing I didn't do (forgot, didn't read the instructions, got in a hurry) was to check the seal on the valves after I re-installed the springs.

Now to start the re-tear down.... fingers crossed.

Think I'll start tomorrow. I have to get in a workout. I'm turning into a stress filled lump.

Is your chain on the lower sprocket?

Hey, Buddy your are10 years to late to the Party.

And You, Rocco - never left the party?