TOPIC:

Might have some crap in the valve. Sounds like it's running lean with those pods.
Steve

Look very carefully at the tongue on the float. If there is a dimple there, that can cause the valve to hang up, especially if you park on the side stand. Take some very fine sand paper and try to smooth the dimple. If it's deep, don't try to remove it. You might remove too much metal. Just try to smooth everything as much as you can so the needle's spring-loaded nipple will easily slide into and out of the dimple.

Make sure the spring on the nipple is still springy.

I've never checked on the availability of new floats, but I doubt they're cheap.

Every now and then you should empty the bowls to make sure the petcock does not leak. This way if it leaks while parked, you only lose the few ounces in the bowl, instead of the whole tank.

Recheck the fuel level after sanding the dimple.

swest wrote: Might have some crap in the valve. Sounds like it's running lean with those pods.
Steve

Will flush fuel system.

Look very carefully at the tongue on the float. If there is a dimple there, that can cause the valve to hang up, especially if you park on the side stand. Take some very fine sand paper and try to smooth the dimple. If it's deep, don't try to remove it. You might remove too much metal. Just try to smooth everything as much as you can so the needle's spring-loaded nipple will easily slide into and out of the dimple.

Make sure the spring on the nipple is still springy.

I've never checked on the availability of new floats, but I doubt they're cheap.

Every now and then you should empty the bowls to make sure the petcock does not leak. This way if it leaks while parked, you only lose the few ounces in the bowl, instead of the whole tank.

Recheck the fuel level after sanding the dimple.

Will recheck. Did notice a tiny dimple. Noticed buildup on the float hinge pins and used a scotchbrite to clean. The floats were not full of fuel.

Progress has slowed considerably over the last two weeks due to a cold I cannot get rid of. I am confident that hopefully, someday soon, I will recover. I swear, ever since I turned 30 it has completely fallen apart. I am not just tired, but utterly exhausted all the time. I believe my hair to be thinning, I cannot overcome a common cold, and my wife reminds me on a constant basis how bad my memory is (says I have old man memory.)

Ah, back on topic, I have temporarily resolved my fuel leak. Carb #4 float needle was hanging up in the float seat, and I believe the buoyancy of the float was insufficient to force the float needle up into the seat. The float tang appeared a little twisted and I gently straightened it until the float needle would repeatedly move all the way up into the seat. I also smoothed all four float tangs, and checked all four fuel levels.

My next issue is what sounds like a vacuum leak. It is not very noticeable at idle, but it becomes very loud at about 4000 rpm. A tapping noise that changes with rpm that sounds like an air leak somewhere. It is not valve train noise, which I do have, but I can hear the difference. I have replaced the carb holders, re-tightened the exhaust header pipe nuts, and am running on "prime" with the sync nipples plugged to bypass the petcock diaphram, all with no change.

I also have an intake backfire at idle on cyl #3, especially with the choke on. Does not happen with any throttle applied.

A visual inspection shows what appears to be a small amount of fuel leaking past the airscrew O rings and onto the screw face. They are wet. How can this happen?

I believe somehow these issues are related to the pods, as I did not have these problems with the airbox. Would a leaking pod filter flange or seal cause this noise? I don't think so because they are not behind the throttle, but these pods really do fit terrible.

I feel like I need to experiment with jetting but I need to fix these issues first. The bike pulls hard until after 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. Then the engine tone changes and the throttle response is not as eager. Not necessarily bogging down, just "not as much as there was".

Have you synced the carbs? Pics of plugs?
Steve

swest wrote: Have you synced the carbs? Pics of plugs?
Steve

The sync is off. I am going to try a sync at higher rpms. My idle sync changes if I rev up the engine.

I will post pictures of the plugs.

U need to synch at idle. Once the carbs open vacuum measurement is meaningless. R

rrsmsw9999 wrote: U need to synch at idle. Once the carbs open vacuum measurement is meaningless. R

I understand that, no vacuum when the throttle valves are open, but upon return to idle the readings are different then they were before increasing rpms.

I have always struggled with this. While idling I can get my oil heights almost the same in my manometer. After I rev up the engine and let it return to idle, the oil heights are now different. It is very frustrating.

Valve adjustment?
Steve

swest wrote: Valve adjustment?
Steve

Done last month.

Some carbs have one that's fixed. I call it the lead carb. I set it up to where I want it to be then adjust the others to it. That will usually fix the problem.
Steve

swest wrote: Some carbs have one that's fixed. I call it the lead carb. I set it up to where I want it to be then adjust the others to it. That will usually fix the problem.
Steve

My Magna had that type. My KZ has TK22's. All four carb slides are adjustable.