TOPIC:

While you have the engine open its as well to replace the cam chain makes it a lot quieter

The chains are pretty tough. Check the cam chain followers though.
Steve

Progress:
The shopping list is complete. However at some point the starter clutch lost one of the rollers, and at the time I decided I would pop it back in later. It is now later and the roller is MIA. So there is still one more shipment from BB that I am waiting on. I am going to use the Jug / Head / Pistons from the donor bike as it only had 13k on it when parked 20 years ago so probably in better shape. I also picked up a full piston ring set.

Just in case you have not sealed cases before, use sparingly and do not forget the inner mating surfaces around the crank. All the oil pan gallery orings are beveled and you will need the kaw part - 3 of em. R

Yep, got all three, plus the one for the oil pickup on the pump.

I have made significant progress, just need someone to verify camshaft timing:









The manual also states that the cam caps should be torqued to 104in/lb. There seems to be some conflicting reports on this, can someone verify what is the minimum safe torque spec?

It's hard to tell from the photos about the cam timing.

1-4 T needs to be aligned on the crank.

EX line parallel to the gasket surface

The appropriate number of chain pins from EX to the IN line on the other cam.

Regarding the torque, 85 in-lbs should be plenty.

More progress to report.I redid the timing, moved the chain one link forward on the crank so that it matched the pics. I am now confident that it is correct. Valve cover, cam chain tensioner, and tach gear installed once again. The ignitions coils are installed. I have filled it with oil and will be looking for any static leaks overnight. I am currently cleaning the clutch cable cover as it still has 30+ years of dirt and chain lube on it. Still need to put the horn back on, clutch cable assembly, shifter, drive chain, exhaust, and the best part: the carbs + boots + fuel tank.

You should read this page, if you haven't already:
gpzweb.s3-website-us-east-1.amazonaws.co...KZZXZR550500400.html

Your earlier post looked ok. It should look like this.


Here's a photo of the sprocket positions.
You may need to open it in a new tab to see it full-size.

I also managed to find this on ebay for $105 + free shipping:



Factory correct tank with no dents and only a small scratch on the side. For a while I was only seeing tanks for sale that looked like that had fallen off a moving bike for $75 + $25 shipping. I was planning on using the tank from the donor bike as it was better than the one I had, but this one is even better. I already have the acid + interior coating I was going to use on the other one so that will some along soon enough.

Looking good, should start right up. R

It should, but to be fair this all started with what I thought to be an electrical issue so who knows at this point. But I do now have replacements for all of the electrical parts on hand.