TOPIC:

swest wrote: Give me a Fing break.
Steve

This is going to be my new avatar as much as a regret bumping Stevie.

Update: the adjusting screw at the lever freaking broke. I'll check to see if a local place has them, they better, it's not like it's a super rare part. I also started her up and the revs shot to moon so i sprayed carb cleaner on the boots, um.. I mean carburetor mounts, and the revs came right on down. As far as I can tell I have at least 2 of them leaking, I might as well replace them who knows how old they are. I'll see if I can find some locally if not I guess that's at least one more week of down time. I'll pull the wheels and have the Shinko 712s mounted in the meantime. Maybe fork seals too.

Before you attempt to remove the carb holder screws from the cylinder head soak them for 2 or 3 days with Kroil. It will break the bond that forms between the screws and the head. MANY folks have either stripped the screw head so they end up fighting with it or actually breaking the screw off inside the head which leads to bigger problems simply because the bond prevents the screw from loosening. I used Kroil on mine (thanks to an industrial engineer friend's advice) and they came out with no problem even though they had been in there since the bike was built 29 years earlier. Here's a link to info on Kroil; some gun shows an shops also carry it:
www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/59672...k-need-advice#656244

Also, assuming the bike has the original cross-head screws, keep in mind they are NOT phillips screws; they are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS). Here's more info on the JIS screws and how to cheaply and easily make bits that fit them.

www.kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/598060-jis-screwdrivers#671274
www.kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/598060-jis-screwdrivers#672838

Thanks, good point on the screws. Funny you should mention Kroil. I've used it for years on guns but hadn't seen it locally for quite awhile. That's until I found it at a local industrial supplier when I bought some aluminum Devcon to fix my cam cap screw fiasco and bought a can. I'll go apply it ASAP.

I got the carb boots in and a generic cable adjuster locally,

When I went take off the old boots they actually looked to be in pretty good shape but they didn't seem to be very tight at all. As a matter of fact, one of the screws seemed to be backed out about 2 turns. Since I had new ones and the old ones did look slightly distorted i just replaced them anyway. I got everything put back together, the carbs rebalanced and she growls like a caged lion and runs like a cheetah after a heard of antelope.

I did the clutch adjust as per the FSM but it seems that the clutch engagement is a bit off. Maybe its just because its been awhile since I've ridden regularly.

Here's my first official grocery run pic.



I also got a tail light from an '02 ZR750, It should look much better but I'm gong to have to build an adapter plate.

Great looking bike. Love the GPz style. Classic!.

Sometimes I find I have to do clutch adjustment a couple of times until it feels just right

Yes, particularly those whacky ball and ramp actuators, which work quite nicely when set up right, just difficult setting the up first time around.

I usually set it roughly on the coarse adjuster, leave the inspection cover off and armed with a 10mm ring spanner and screwdriver I find a quiet road to 'nail it', see if the clutch will slip under full power and adjusting accordingly. I rarely get it right first time around.

Thanks , I'll play around with the clutch a little. I pulled the wheels last night so I can get some tires mounted. The brake pads were shot. The fronts were super thin and the rears were down to the metal. The right front rotor had fork oil on them as well.

New short list: brake pads and fluid, Fork seals and oil, 530 chain and sprockets (17/40).

Check your upper and lower fork bushings too, I needed these for mine. The top bush is the same part nuber as the 550d1, the bottom never available, but pattern bushes are availailbe if you search with the dimensions. If they are badly worn you will see it .

I'll check that too, thanks. Looking at the parts diagram it looks like they consider the lowers as part of the inner fork tube.

530 Sprockets and chain. Check! 16/38 is supposed to put me a 2.34 final drive ratio.

Right fork seal. CHECK! I'll do the left this winter.

Tires on rims and back on bike, CHECK! Don't tell anyone I didn't make sure the chain went over the center stand before I crimped on the master link and had to remove and remount the stand.

New brake pads..................; GD! SOB! They gave me the wrong GD freakin pads!!!!!! At least they're open tomorrow.

Glad I got into this thread, just had a z1000j tool box donated to me been looking for that for a few years now .

Thanks Bo !

Alright! I got the correct pads and got them installed. I figured out the clutch adjustment. The principle issue was that the actuator lever wasn't correctly seated and or oriented. It took me a little trial and error and a three block push back to the house to get to the bottom of that issue.

It seems I've got her up to 100% operational, I'm going to ride it to work, see if I cant get it inspected and licensed tomorrow. I'll drive it for the rest of the "season" and decide what types of things I want to do to it in the second phase of my project.... No tabs or original parts will be harmed in the execution of further modifications.