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They are slightly larger than stock. When I got my first one, I didn't know if it would fit. I've gone through at least 5 since 13 at $5 a piece.
Steve

I had to go up to the bike shop. The auto parts chains around here don't carry much in motorcycle stuff. What they do have is for more contemporary bikes. I bought a Hiflowfiltro for abut $5 and rode on home. I put the prescribed 3.5 l in it after draining and new filter but the oil level is above the mark on the window. I ran it for a bit and did a quick ride around the neighborhood to get the oil "saturated" into the filter, etc. and it still shows high.

Now here's the good part, the drain plug is stripped, bet you didn't see that coming. It held OK for a while but started leaking after I took that short spin. I'd rather it not decide to take a vacation on the interstate so it looks like I'm grounded again until I can find an oversize plug for it.

I Also took the rear fender and chain guard off. They were both trashed so does that make it a cafe racer now? I stuck a tail piece accessory shelf from KZ750E under the tail piece it doesn't fit perfect but dang near and I'll fit it permanently later on.








I also realized my tail light was on upside down. Flipped that over, During he process I mocked up the ZR750 tail light I bought for it. I'm going to have to build a custom mount for it, It sticks out too far behind the tail piece, so does the stock one for that matter.

I picked up an oversize plug at Autozone and I'm back in business. I was scared of over torquing the thing so it took a little bit before the oil stopped dripping. Just on a whim I typed "kz750 oil pan" into eBay search and the 3rd item down turned out to be an actual GPz pan for $25 shipped. I have that on the way now. I'm trying to decide whether to put a stainless bushing in the new one and install it right away then repair my current pan or to just keep it in reserve in event of future issues.

Oh and the head on the oil filter bolt is all rounded off like someone didn't use a socket and rounded it off at odd angle that would have to use with a standard wrench then moved on to vise grips. I had to pound on a 16mm socket to get it out and back on. It does seem, however, like there are plenty replacements available for my next filter change.

It has to come off to change the pan anyways.
Steve

I was scared of over torquing the thing so it took a little bit before the oil stopped dripping

Use a copper washer on the sump drain bolt, you can feel it squash down just a bit as it is tightened.

Tyrell Corp wrote: Use a copper washer on the sump drain bolt, you can feel it squash down just a bit as it is tightened.

good idea

It's running pretty much perfect. I've gone through 2 tanks of gas getting practically 50 mpg. I'm not going to do one more mechanical thing to it unless I have issues.

The only things I want to do are put bar end mirrors on and cleanup the tail piece compartment set up.

Once it gets colder I'll move onto phase II, solo seat/rack set up, paint, etc.

I promise I'll post more pics once the mirrors are on and it's cleaned up.

I would try to get my hands on a top triple tee from a KZ750 L3 in order to rid the bike of the original Gpz handlebars that start to rattle after a while and one has to change the little stopper that gets deformed and if you try to get them back in shape, they get soft as clay.

Smack on a Superbike bar and all is good.

On my bike both sides are rattling, luckily the fork tube keeps the handlebar in place. The PO, a cop must have been working extra hours for the highway department inspecting pavement, most parts of the bike has closely been inspecting the condition of the asphalt.

scubaanders wrote: I would try to get my hands on a top triple tee from a KZ750 L3 in order to rid the bike of the original Gpz handlebars that start to rattle after a while and one has to change the little stopper that gets deformed and if you try to get them back in shape, they get soft as clay.

Smack on a Superbike bar and all is good.

Superbike bars are on the short list. I was going to just build some adaptors at work out of scrap aluminum and scrounged up handlebar risers.

I tried fitting raisers on my track bike back in the eighties, but there wasn’t really enough material in order to do what I wanted. So I ended up milling brand new tee’s from scratch in order to fit a real handlebar (that was year before bike salvage yards and ebay). I had to do it anyway, as I fitted a Dymag rim up front.

Back then I had access to a fully equipped mechanical shop witch made life so much easier.

I think you will save yourself a lot of hassle if you try to pick up an upper tee from a L3. Going down that route all you have to do is fit the instrument cluster.


Consider the upper tee is casted iron.

I'm going to mill some adapters to replace the current set up using the big bolt and existing alignment bolt. Then attach some universal clamps/risers which should work just fine. I was digging through the scrap pile today and found a couple of good pieces of 6061-T6 which will do nicely.

When I got home today I noticed a small puddle of oil where the bike is parked. Looks like I'm going to have to replace that pan quicker than I hoped. The replacement pan looks like it has a replacement plug in it as well. I guess I better get a gasket and filter bolt ordered and get the drain plug bushing installed.

she looks good enjoy