TOPIC:

And I will finally get to sink my teeth into it GG.Got it home Monday evening.

Did a quick mock up to see how thing looked.

Badging should clean up nicely.

As will the petcock.Will run it though the ultrasonic and treat it to the new OEM diaphragm the PO gave me.

I sure hope all this stuff works.

This sig is toast,other side looks better but still not good.Thinking some K&S repro sigs are going to replace them.Think I can rehab the rears.The bad is the right stanchion had some bad rust spots.Going to try the JB Weld trick on them but I might have to replace

I finally got stuck in to the tear down yesterday.The Kawa electrics are definitely set up different than the Suzuki GS's I'm used to.The 2 fuse box thing is weird to me but I guess it works PO added a blade holder for the main fuse so there's now 3.

Thought I might rehab the boots till I seen this.Good thing I can get all the engine and air box boots for $110+ shipping.

Seems some PO cut out the "funnel' on the element holder,looked it up and they're NLA..Guess I`ll be asking for one.

Up on the jack waiting for more Nearly forgot,Chain looks like it was replaced .Not so sure on the sprockets.All seems to be in good shape but I wish the chain was shot as I`d rather have a 530 than the 630.

K&N sells a replacement airfilter that is decent. There are several on eBay...expect to pay about $40.00.

According to Kawasaki.com the '82 GpZ750 air filter funnel is part number 11012-069. As you stated, it is no longer available from Kawasaki, but Kawasaki.com show the following 30 models all using that same part number so even if no one on this site has an extra one you should be able to get one from eBay or a bike breaker. Ed

KZ650-B1 (1977)
KZ650-B2 (1978)
KZ650-B2A (1978)
KZ650-B3 (1979)
KZ650-C1 (Custom) (1977)
KZ650-C2 (Custom) (1978)
KZ650-C3 (Custom) (1979)
KZ650-D1 (SR) (1978)
KZ650-D1A (SR) (1978)
KZ650-D2 (SR) (1979)
KZ650-E1 (LTD) (1980)
KZ650-F1 (1980)
KZ650-H1 (CSR) (1981)
KZ650-H2 (CSR) (1982)
KZ650-H3 (CSR) (1983)
KZ700-A1 (1984)
KZ750-E1 (1980)
KZ750-E2 (1981)
KZ750-E3 (1982)
KZ750-F1 (LTD Shaft) (1983)
KZ750-H1 (LTD) (1980)
KZ750-H2 (LTD) (1981)
KZ750-H3 (LTD) (1982)
KZ750-H4 (LTD) (1983)
KZ750-L3 (1983)
KZ750-N1 (Spectre) (1982)
KZ750-N2 (Spectre) (1983)
KZ750-R1 (GPz) (1982)
ZN700-A1 (LTD Shaft) (1984)
ZN700-A2 (LTD Shaft) (1985)

Thanks for that list Ed,it should help a lot when the time comes to replace it.The filter actually looks to be in good shape Mcdroid .

Got it mostly stripped down ready to remove the engine.Got the swing arm pivot nut off but the pivot bolt refuses to budge.even being hit with my 3 lbs club hammer.Don't want to mess up the threads.Put some PB Blasterto see if it hepls.Not sure what to try if it doesn't

Need new shocks to,not unexpected.

Stanchion might be beyond saving with JB Weld to Everything else has come off quite easily,soaking the bolts with penetrating oil really helps.

When you work on the engine if you need to remove any of the cross-head screws please understand they are not Phillips. they are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS). The link below will help you deal with them. Also, if the PB Blaster doesn't work on the swing arm bolt I highly recommend you try Kroil. It works really well at loosening up fasteners that are bonded together. The second link below describes it. Ed

kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/532335-budget...ewdriver-tips#532335

www.kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/59140...-intake-boots#608729

Never seen that Kroil up here in Canada.No JIS screws on this engine either,it's all socket (allen) head screws.Not sure if the GPz came factory this way or if a PO saved me the trouble of getting a allen head bolt kit.

GKBO wrote: Never seen that Kroil up here in Canada.No JIS screws on this engine either,it's all socket (allen) head screws.Not sure if the GPz came factory this way or if a PO saved me the trouble of getting a allen head bolt kit.

There are alternative products to Kroil...such as PB Blaster, etc. The KZ750-R1 came stock with allen-head engine bolts...clever Japanese engineers.

The allens looked stock to me so thanks for the confirm.Formulating a plan for the pivot,Continue on with what's left to remove.Then pull the engine,I like to put the frame and engine on it's side then lift the frame off.Will continue to dose the pivot with penetrating oil for a week.If that doesn't work I'm looking to see if I can't get it pressed out.

Been soaking the pivot for a few days and decided to with it with the 3# club hammer yesterday evening.After not moving much the first hits I got it almost flush with the frame.Was not really the best time to be doing a bunch of hammering so now that I can get to it easier I'm soaking the bolt end side.Progress,slow but sure

At last I got the pivot out!Took a bit of heat and a concoction of ATF and alcohol to get it out.Thanks to Bear at the BC Classics site for the suggestion.

the needles did a number on the pivot sleeve,another BC Classics member suggested using bushings.Any thoughts or suggestions?

If it was me, I'd replace the sleeve and axle and still use needle bearings, instead of retrofitting with bushings. As long as you don't treat the GPz as poorly as the previous owner, the needle bearings in that swing arm should last years without needing to be replaced.