TOPIC:

650ed wrote:

LarryC wrote:
......From the picture, I don't see any worries with that top tree. The bulk of generated forces will be carried by the lower tree, through the stem, into the frame. Cutting the little nubs off where gauges mounted isn't going to make them weaker.........

Cutting the little gauge nubs isn't what would concern me. But boring those huge holes in the tree where there is no re-enforcement like there is where the fork tubes pass through scares the heck outta me. I wouldn't trust it at all. Ed

Thanks guys! This project isnt goint to be done overnight, thats for sure, so before its dont I might have a steel upper tripple tree made that has the holes in it like the one I modified. I figure this will make sure there are no problems. When I cut the holes I didnt think it would weaken it much since it wasnt cutting the support ribs but now everyone has me second guessing it haha. Ill prolly have the steel one made to give me piece of mind. Next up thought is some tank modification. I had an idea to put a flush mount gas cap on and Leon told me he had already done it and I love the way his looks.

Here is a picture of his.

650ed wrote:

LarryC wrote:
......From the picture, I don't see any worries with that top tree. The bulk of generated forces will be carried by the lower tree, through the stem, into the frame. Cutting the little nubs off where gauges mounted isn't going to make them weaker.........

Cutting the little gauge nubs isn't what would concern me. But boring those huge holes in the tree where there is no re-enforcement like there is where the fork tubes pass through scares the heck outta me. I wouldn't trust it at all. Ed

How the Hell did I miss seeing that Ed YEP...that is a big concern. Scrap that tree and get another.

I don't understand why you cut it in the first place. If it's to stick a gauge in it, the gauge will be at a hard angle to read don't you think?

LarryC wrote: How the Hell did I miss seeing that Ed YEP...that is a big concern. Scrap that tree and get another.

I don't understand why you cut it in the first place. If it's to stick a gauge in it, the gauge will be at a hard angle to read don't you think?

Yes its for the gauges, and they are actually very easy to read at that angle. They are bright led gauges. Ill prolly have a steel one made to replace the aluminum one.

Why make one out of steel? If you were to get another top triple, just cleanly mount those gauges using a nice aluminum mount. No point I creating a steel tree....

Edit: I understand so you can still add the gauges into the tree, but you need to look at the triple like an I beam. The material is cast into a shape that accepts the forces normally experience in the front suspension of a bike. The ribs that are left are design to prevent vertical flexing that is in line with the forks. The plane of the material you cut are to resist forces that are perpendicular to the fork motion. If the fork was to try and twist in the lower triple like the front wheel striking a pothole at speed, the forces will be applied right to the triple where your gauge is mounted, bike momentum being transmitted through the steering stem portion while the forks transit out at the end of the triple in the opposite direction. Those hole are right where the forces would meet. Steel or not, emulating your current design with steel, not enough material to safety support IMHO.

Cory

Great bike build.

On the triple tree. it's a death trap a suicide rap.

Take a look at aftermarket triple trees. On my Monster the triple is completely hollow where you have bored yours. Of course it was DESIGNED with this intention unlike the stock one.

i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx11/scooter..._466_zps206c75da.jpg

"we have to get out while we're young, 'cause tramps like us, baby we were born to run!"

So i have an idea to get the look you are going for. This maybe hard for me to explain, but bear with me.... What if you got another stock upper triple tree. Mount that, and then suck your forks up above the top triple tree the thickness amount of the triple. Then take your triple you already fitted your gauges into, and lay it on top of the new triple. The fork caps should be flush with the top of it. Now mark out the center of the triple, where you could cut it out, leaving the "wings" of the modified triple to act as gauge pods. Then, since your seem to TIG well, weld them along with a filler piece for the end to the top of your new triple on the bottom. It will give a gull wing appearance, with the center dropped where the steering stem comes through. I can draw it out where it all makes sense...... It will keep it structurally sound, yet give the look you are after.

cory

NakedFun wrote: "we have to get out while we're young, 'cause tramps like us, baby we were born to run!"

So i have an idea to get the look you are going for. This maybe hard for me to explain, but bear with me.... What if you got another stock upper triple tree. Mount that, and then suck your forks up above the top triple tree the thickness amount of the triple. Then take your triple you already fitted your gauges into, and lay it on top of the new triple. The fork caps should be flush with the top of it. Now mark out the center of the triple, where you could cut it out, leaving the "wings" of the modified triple to act as gauge pods. Then, since your seem to TIG well, weld them along with a filler piece for the end to the top of your new triple on the bottom. It will give a gull wing appearance, with the center dropped where the steering stem comes through. I can draw it out where it all makes sense...... It will keep it structurally sound, yet give the look you are after.

cory

Excellent idea Cory.

NakedFun wrote: "we have to get out while we're young, 'cause tramps like us, baby we were born to run!"

So i have an idea to get the look you are going for. This maybe hard for me to explain, but bear with me.... What if you got another stock upper triple tree. Mount that, and then suck your forks up above the top triple tree the thickness amount of the triple. Then take your triple you already fitted your gauges into, and lay it on top of the new triple. The fork caps should be flush with the top of it. Now mark out the center of the triple, where you could cut it out, leaving the "wings" of the modified triple to act as gauge pods. Then, since your seem to TIG well, weld them along with a filler piece for the end to the top of your new triple on the bottom. It will give a gull wing appearance, with the center dropped where the steering stem comes through. I can draw it out where it all makes sense...... It will keep it structurally sound, yet give the look you are after.

cory

Thanks for the ideas! Yeah, when I cut the holes in it I didnt really think about how the forces would be applied to it. I really do want to keep the gauges flush mounted so Ive been thinking about it today and drew up a triple tree design that is solid rather than having pockets and ribs like the stock triple tree clamp. This design, made out of steel, should be more than strong enough to withstand any forces generated on it. Take a look at the pictures and let me know what you think. Its pretty beefy so it will be much heavier than the stock one but the added weight is an acceptable trade off for the piece of mind and safety.

Figured Id add these two pictures too. They show the new material thickness above and below the gauge holes.
Overall triple tree thickness = .900" Solid
Above hole = .710"
Below hole = .870"

NakedFun wrote: "we have to get out while we're young, 'cause tramps like us, baby we were born to run!"

So i have an idea to get the look you are going for. This maybe hard for me to explain, but bear with me.... What if you got another stock upper triple tree. Mount that, and then suck your forks up above the top triple tree the thickness amount of the triple. Then take your triple you already fitted your gauges into, and lay it on top of the new triple. The fork caps should be flush with the top of it. Now mark out the center of the triple, where you could cut it out, leaving the "wings" of the modified triple to act as gauge pods. Then, since your seem to TIG well, weld them along with a filler piece for the end to the top of your new triple on the bottom. It will give a gull wing appearance, with the center dropped where the steering stem comes through. I can draw it out where it all makes sense...... It will keep it structurally sound, yet give the look you are after.

cory

BTW, It took me a little bit to visualize what you are describing but I think Ive got it. Seems like it would be a good idea but my gauges extend past the bottom of the triple tree unfortunately so the stock one wouldnt be able to set up against it.