TOPIC:

Good ideas, thanks. I think the reservoir would be easy enough to paint but the adjuster rings would be tough without disassembly. Even then, I don't think they could stand up to a spanner wrench.

peter1958 wrote: When I had it I sat it next to my ELR and it was the same pipe except chrome.

By the way, is that your ELR in your profile pic? I love those...wish I would have picked one up back in the day. I wouldn't mind doing a GPZ based replica one of these days.

OK, finally got the bike out for a test run today. I'm totally disappointed....I've got a problem I can't figure out!!

I runs beautifully up until about half throttle and 6k rpms. Sounds like main jets, right? I replaced the 120's with 117.5, then 115 and it didn't help. So then I tried 125s and saw no difference there either.

It sounds like the engine is on a soft touch rev limiter...I think it's only dropping a cylinder or two which would make me think ignition. Then again, it's very similar to typical jetting issues so maybe that's it...I just don't know. By the way, I have a dyna S ignition with andrews coils and accel plug wires. 29 smoothbores, K&N type individual air filters, started with 120 mains. I am stumped.

This is a shot right before I hit the road for the first time....

Pic of plugs?
Steve

plugs were quite black from idling it over the winter. After a few short trial runs they were lightening up quite a bit.

It's been a while since I've had to jet a new set up....wouldn't the engine bog rather that stutter if it were jetting?

I suppose it could be float levels but I set those with the clear tube method...they have to be close.

I think my next move will be to swap the carbs with a set I know works properly. That way I'll know if it's the carbs or not.

i would definitely start with a new set of plugs.
and do a plug chop before i pulled the carbs.

leon

Go up on pilots.....keep mains at 120

I tried a set of good running 28mm pumpers and the bike runs fine. Looking over my set up for the 29's....I see that the needle valve assemblies are only 2.0's and they should be 2.5's. I'm not sure if that could make enough of a difference but the engine seems to be starving for fuel when wide open. On the other hand, I hate to spend $80 on new needle valve assemblies if they aren't going to help.

I went 2.5's on my 28's when I was running them. It would run out of fuel at sustained WOT not on short bursts.
Steve

swest wrote: I went 2.5's on my 28's when I was running them. It would run out of fuel at sustained WOT not on short bursts.
Steve

That's what I was thinking, it would probably run OK at least for a little while. With the 29's it won't run over half throttle without a severe stutter.

My 33's have duel fuel inlets and all four are connected with a fuel rail. They gulp gas.
Steve

I have a highly technical question about carburetors. I think my smoothbores have a serious problem and it's super complicated. This is gonna get deep....so I'm going to start a new thread.

The link to the new thread is:
www.kzrider.com/forum/3-carburetor/60279...ut-mikuni-vm29-carbs