TOPIC:

Maybe Kaman bearing would have them cheaper. I figured if I was spending $2000 on the bike what's another $138. I bought a fender for $250.
Steve

So due to the tropical storm coming through all weekend, I haven't gotten much done, but did get the glass beading done...

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So some powdercoating tomorrow, scotch brite and brass wire before final cleaning and clear coating.... More to come.

Cory

Cory, It's looking Great, , I like the way you're taking your time &doing it right, !!
Pete

So today was a sort-of-victory. I ended up cleaning and masking my covers that I wanted to do in wrinkle black. Some came out great, some came out bad. I cleaned them, dried them, de-gassed them, and baked them. The valve cover has one small flaw near a bolt hole where the PC looked like it clumped up. The LH cover and clutch cover have a lot more of these bumps. Very disheartening.....trying to decide if I want to start over again and redo these. Other than that, looks like the look I was going for on the engine.

Other than some case polishing, nothing new to report....

Cory

Not a whole lot to report this time. Finished up "polishing" the cases, tapping the motor mounts for the D&G Chassis mounts, and working on cleaning up the cases really well from the glass media. I also made my own oil control gate. Didn't like the standard design gate where you have to drill through the bottom of the pan, so I designed my own.

Cory

Looks like new. I'm with you about drilling a hole in the pan. Good idea. Can I copy it?
Steve

Sure, NP. Lol..... Just make sure your hinge pin is secure so it doesn't come loose and I am using an extra long button Allen so that the gate can't open too far and get stuck full open. Will test it with water prior to installation.

Cory

Looks good to me. I just happen to have a hinge handy. Good idea on the stop too.
Steve

the gate turned out nice cory!

leon

swest wrote: Looks like new. I'm with you about drilling a hole in the pan. Good idea. Can I copy it?
Steve

Oh one other thing to note if replicating this design. I used a section of a continuous stainless steel hinge I bought from a hardware store. The hinge has a long section of wire for the pin. I tried a number of ways to ensure it didn't come loose and ended up doing the following:

- The pin is captured on the bolted side of the hinge. This way the bottom of the pin touches the bottom of the pan, trapping the lower flapper section.

- I could not easily enough crimp the pin well enough for my comfort. So I drilled a small hole in the rounded barrel of the hinge plate and the. Proceeded to dimple the pin itself with the drill bit.

- Then I mixed up some JB Weld and pushed some inside the barrel and slid the pin in place with the dimple lining up with the hole in the barrel. Then I applied JB Weld into and over that drilled hole, using the hole and simple to help the JB Weld "pin" the two together. I finished off with coating the end of the barrel where the pin slid into with JB Weld as well. Just make sure to clean off the exposed pin whet the flapper will slide over to ensure free movement.

Cory

The one I have isn't SS. I will sweat solder the pin on one end. So simple. I wonder why I didn't think of it . Need a new pan gasket so I will do this and m exhaust gaskets at the same time.
Thanks for the idea.
Steve

What is the advantage of the gate?