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So more engine parts came off, and very suprised at the condition of the inside, very clean and good condition. I also did a bunch more rinses with the Oxy Clean mix. More dark crap came out. I am pretty convinced there is really no rust at all in the tank, just that dried varnish. Now a gallon of Acetone is sitting in it and we shall see if it gets better. Hoping to finish off with either some gas and Marvel Mystery oil mix to help preserve the tank until it gets filled with gas.

Cory

So more engine parts came off, and after a gallon of Acetone sitting in it and it did get a little better, but noticed it was still a little brown haze.

So now to try this..... I keep checking the debris coming out of the tank with a magnet. Noticed it began to stick and the Acetone wasn't doing much more. Decided the rest was light rust, so did my research and chose to do this. After I flip it for a couple of days, rinse out the tank, going to use the preservative in the spray bottle that drys to the touch in 30 mins and is water based. Will seal bare metal that is stored inside for up to a year.

We'll see how it goes...

Cory

So the tank came out beautiful! I will post pics when I get home. Now I can focus on the engine. I have my recipe, and after I teardown, clean, document, then assemblies will be taken to Pit Stop Performance in Orlando, FL to have the machining work completed, then I will assemble and tune.

Just dropped off my parts at the painter!!!! Very excited to see this in color! He is going to keep it for two weeks to allow his clear to fully harden before he cuts and polishes it. He says it will be mile deep glass when it is done.......

Cory

So here are a couple of pics.....

Worked very well. Used their dry coat product to keep it sealed until it is ready for fuel.

Cory

looks damn good to me.

leon

531blackbanshee wrote: looks damn good to me.

leon

Thanks Leon. Stuff works pretty good. As a side note, I got a set of 83/84 cams coming for the engine build. Further tear down to occur after I get home from the Smokies on Tuesday.

Cory

So it has been awhile getting a chance to work on the bike. Tins/Plastics are still at the painter as he is backed up. Ironically I brought him my father-in-laws bike tins and now they are in front of mine and should be ready this Wednesday, but they needed to be done first. Riled has been a god send in getting my custom badges done, and the head and new GPZ cams are packaged lovingly in a box waiting to go to Larry @ Cavanaugh Racing Heads in PA. I am just waiting fro Jeff Saunders to email me back with my invoice so I can get all the APE & Kibblewhite parts in so they get sent with the head to Larry for porting and rebuild. I also dropped the seat off at a custom upholstery shop and they will be doing some samples for me early next week. I think I have decided on brown leather instead of black. Going to also change the rubber inserts of my Rizoma grips to brown leather or brown rubber. I ordered a could of Biltwell grips to cut up and try from Dime City Cycles....we'll see how this works.....

This leaves the engine.... so starting to tear down and catalog the parts and pieces. The engine looks really good for a 70K+ mileage engine though. Surprisingly the dogs I can see look fantastic.

So it was time to quit because out of this entire drawer of sockets and my second drawer, I have every size except 30mm........could have swore I had one.....

I also decided to order one of the EBC clutch holder tool instead of the redneck engineering method of how I was going to hold the clutch. So until that shows up......time to sit and wait again....

Cory

That engine stand looks like it will be a really big advantage as you work on the engine. Very nice setup! Ed

Thanks it seems to be working. In order to split the cases, need to remove one leg so it is a tripod, but holds really well. I also had to readjust the one arm to clear the lower case half. The way it is laid out, should be able to build the whole engine piece by piece in the stand.

Cory

So I got my 30mm socket yesterday after work and spent a few minutes out in the garage. Got the clutch off and split the cases. Surprisingly everything looks pretty good.

I need to create engine blueprinting sheet and start documenting the conditions and dimensions of the critical wear points. So far I have measured the shift forks and fork grooves on the gear sets. All forks are straight and within the specification range (5.90-5.98mm) (Fork Spec is 6.0mm to 5.8mm - Service Limit being 5.4mm). Will evaluate the bearings, gear backlash, etc.... Interested in the dogs and what I should do with them once I disassemble the gear sets. To back cut or not to back cut, that is the question......

Cory

Hi Cory
Since you have gone this far I would backcut and install APEs shift bushing ( cheap )
From their the skies the limit
Dave

Thanks for the feedback, but so as far as HD timing components, tool steel shift shaft, billet 3rd gear fork, main & head studs, main bearing support plate, etc.. that is in my plan and shopping list. As far as going to like APE billet gears, HD output shaft, etc.. is a lot of money and one that is not necessarily value added for a street bike running a 180 radial street tire with a 1015 or at most, 1105cc motor. If I was drag racing with a big block, would be another story.

As far as back cutting (Up and Down is like $750 by itself) and bearing replacements, those were on the list in the "as needed" category. I have a $1200 paint job, a $1100 head work, a $500 dollar seat all coming up due for payment so I do need to spend money on what really will add value.....I am not build a Pro Stock bike.

Cory