TOPIC:

no sea-doo's.
but how about a yamaha trailway kz customod



ratch is def. on the right track with this bike.
i am a dual shock afficianado myself.
it just pains me very much to not be able to afford the ohlins of my dreams.
hell or even some works,or those yss would be cool with me.
sorry for the distractions ratch,keep us posted on this kicka$$ ride that you are building,

leon

A nice little morsel arrived in the post. A Brand New original Kawasaki fuel tank in original paint!










Minty fresh inside.



Need to measure this - hop it takes the modern emblem...?




Shame about that paintjob - going to suck stripping that off!

Worth the money in the grand scheme of things - it's a Z tank!

Spectacular project.
I just love the overall look this project is taking on.
Well done.

Cheers.

Been silent on the forum but busy in the garage. Have a Z750 engine almost 100% stripped down (wrecked the barrel fins getting it off) and a set of Wiseco 810 pistons on order.

basically, I'm in engine mode at the moment and everything stops till that is cleaned up, painted and built. Then I can continue - lots of parts built up.

Stay tuned!

Just to keep the thread alive - small update but nice parts arrived.






300mm Wavey. :twisted: I did want regular circular and drilled for the classic look but they sent me these as the standard fitment for my SuperMoto wheels and I couldn't be bothered to return them so they stay. Besides, I think the ultra modern detail like these and the old skool parts will contrast nicely.

Very nice, what are you running for a front hub ? I have a SM wheel set but the front is only single disk, I'd like to get a double disk hub.

My Sm wheels are built as a set. Talon Twin Disc front hub (the only one they make is for a KTM) on Excel rims. Pix in the previous page.

I'm guessing the Talon KTM hub is for a 990 Adventure front hub application ? RAD Mfg makes one for the 990 as well, I was wondering if it could be made to work with the 636 forks ( rotor spacing etc. )

I'm doing custom yokes so am choosing what works best.

So I made some progress!

Got another frame, the other one is manly and for chopping up / checking parts fit etc. This is one is very nice with hardly any rust. It'll get blasted and painted but nicer to work with and for £30?






Some other parts hoarding. Almost brand new fuel tap / petcock thing.




Set of great panels - says made in Japan on back but not sure if they're original. No recess for badge?




Mint carb rubbers.




And a load of other bits, mint headlamp (probably go for smaller 5" universal etc) and various other bits and pieces. These were with some of the engine mount brackets / bolts taped to the frame - where do they go?






So, got the engine torn down to a manageable size and fit it in frame to get my chainline set up as I need to tell the wheel builders what hub offset I want to help my chain / sprocket alignment.

So I fit the swing arm of choice - which just slots right in with no mods after all - must have been asleep before.




Then set a VERY rough plumb line in line with a line on the floor.




That tells me where the centre of the front wheel is. Set up the rear axle so it's in line with that and now I can check my chainline.

So here's my question. I know the hub including sprocket carrier / cush drive is 156mm wide. Assuming the chainline falls say, +30mm left, is this the measurement I am to give the wheelbuilder what he needs? He has asked me for what dish I want, I assume he means where to position the hub in relation the rim/axle centre? See pic below.




Started to look at all the other jobs I need to do like rear brake brake cylinder mount, whether to go with rearsets or not etc.

This is a Ninja cylinder with lever and it actually bolts right up but the lever is way off in relation the where the peg mounts.




I want to use this Brembo cylinder (for purely pimp purposes) so will probably need to mount this well outside of the frame and 'make' or modify an existing pedal as there is no space behind - a shame as I'm trying to get a super clean look.




Just need to get the rear wheel ordered and it will start to look like a bike!

The two brackets in your hand hold the airbox - the solid part slides into a groove on the lower rear of the box and the part with the hole bolts to a nut on each side of the battery box, you can see the nut in the third pic from the top just about dead center of the pic.

Ratch, you may need to clarify "dish" with your wheel builder, but as it relates to building spoked bicycle wheels (which I have some experience) dish refers to the difference of the rim centerline from the hub centerline. Now on a bicycle, you set the dish to offset the rear gear cassette. Basically the hub is offset from the centerline of the hub to get the rim center in line with the backbone of the frame. It should be about the same with the motorcycle with one exception. You need to take into consideration what width of tire you are using, and weather the chain will clear said tire. If you are running anything wider than a 130 tire, then adjust your dish to clear the tire, and then you will need to offset the countershaft sprocket to get the chain in line. Your main considerations are chain to tire clearance, and getting the rear tire on center. Obviously, tire width is not a consideration in the case of a bicycle since those tires are usually 23mm wide.

PS, there also may need to be some consideration of the rear brake caliper hanger. Normally there will be a pair of machined spacers that keep the wheel centered on the frame. Keep in mind that not all swingarms are symmetrical.