TOPIC:

OK now that my introduction is over in the hello forum I need to get on with my project. I don't know if this is the right area to be asking running condition issues but since the is truly a project build I thought this is where I belong. For the short intro first plan is 05-06 gsxr1K front and 92 gsxr750 swinger with twin shocks. every other aspect will be custome. Only original KZ frame, motor and tins.

now to start from initial investigations.

I got my new project 79 kz1000 back together enough last night to take it off the bench and go around the block. now on the bench she ran great, idled fine, was very snappy on the throttle. But on the test ride under load she totaly broke up. I just went through the carbs and all seems fine however I did not put my sync gages on yet. The only thing I did not like was the accelorator pump diaphram. No holes but a little wrinkled.

To me it felt like a ignition problem not carb.

I guess my first question is what cylinders do the coils feed I thought the left coil fed 1-3 and the right fed 2-4. When I put it back on the bench I found the left coil feeding 1-4. The rest of the wiring does not look very good and is the only negative on this bike. Everything else is showing better then expected.

Please chime in on any known issues with this vintage KZ

Thanks and yes I will post some pics

1-4 and 2+3 that is correct, the problem your describing sounds alot like carb problems to me

Im all for making sure it's not the carbs. If they were CV's I would say I could walk through them blindfolded. It has been a long time since I worked on a set of these.

A couple things i would like to talk about is how much does the acc pump affect just comming on the needle? and what does the sensor diaphram next the the Acc pump do?

For sure all the mains, pilots and A/F circuits are clean. Tank has fresh cream job.

Cigarette38 wrote:

...now on the bench she ran great, idled fine, was very snappy on the throttle. But on the test ride under load she totally broke up...felt like a ignition problem....

Would also check functioning of the automatic advancer unit, as it might be sticking and failing to advance, which condition isn't as noticeable when engine's not under load.

If the issue is carb related, am thinking something other than sync.

Good Fortune!

I looked at that and the advancer seems to move freely, zero resitance except for the spring.

Might be weak spark.

With fully charged battery, what is voltage being actually received by coils?

Could measure voltage at dual connector where two red wires feed off to coils.
When Ignition switch is ON, there should be voltage equal to battery voltage (measured across the battery terminals) at 12~13 volts.

Is the stock 1979 KZ1000-A3 electronic ignition still installed?

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote:
[quote) Is the stock 1979 KZ1000-A3 electronic ignition still installed?

Good Fortune! [/quote]

Good question Patton.I've had a Dyna on my 79 so long I can't remember if the electronic ignition had an advance. I do know the plate was fixed, with no slots to advance or retard ignition timing.

Patton wrote:

Might be weak spark.

With fully charged battery, what is voltage being actually received by coils?

Could measure voltage at dual connector where two red wires feed off to coils.
When Ignition switch is ON, there should be voltage equal to battery voltage (measured across the battery terminals) at 12~13 volts.

Is the stock 1979 KZ1000-A3 electronic ignition still installed?

Good Fortune!

Yes I have good battery voltage "new batt full charge" But i did not check at the coil for voltage, I just ohmed it out to ground all wires where infinat. Color of the spark was blue but I am not going to say it was strong blue.

I believe it to be all stock ignition except maybe the coils. and yes to electronic. two pickups right side on a non adjustable plate.

Motor compression dry was 130 across the board.

Jack wrote:

...had a Dyna on my 79 so long I can't remember if the electronic ignition had an advance....

It has the same beloved automatic advancer (weights and springs).

And which by now likely needs lubing.

Good Fortune!

Cigarette38 wrote:

the wiring does not look very good and is the only negative on this bike....

Cigarette38 wrote:

...have good battery voltage "new batt full charge" But i did not check at the coil for voltage, I just ohmed it out to ground all wires where infinat. Color of the spark was blue but I am not going to say it was strong blue....

Reason for measuring voltage being actually received by coils (as compared to voltage across battery terminals) is to determine whether voltage is being lost somewhere between battery and coils (from things such as old wiring, weak connections, etc.).

For example, might have 12~13 volts across battery terminals, but only 9 volts being actually received by coils, an thereby result in weak spark.

Not the only reason for weak spark, of course, but a good place to start checking, especially where appearance of wiring isn't confidence inspiring.

Good Fortune!

Cigarette38 wrote:

...believe it to be all stock ignition except maybe the coils. and yes to electronic. two pickups right side on a non adjustable plate.

Primary wiring resistance in stock ignition coil is supposed to measure 1.2~1.9 ohms.

Secondary wiring resistance in stock ignition coil is supposed to measure 12000~18000 ohms.

The red wire from right handlebar switch-gear feeds through the stock in-line resistor before getting to the dual connector feeding a separate red wire to each coil primary (see wiring diagram). The in-line resistor is supposed to measure 1.5~1.9 ohms.

However, even with correct ohm measurements, a coil may fail during actual use.

A dealer or well equipped tech may have a genuine Kawasaki Electrotester, which measures arcing distance with and without plug caps. Standard arc distance is 7mm or more.

Given otherwise perfect electronic ignition components (battery, coils, plug wires, caps, plugs, resistor, igniter, pick-ups, etc.), good quality spark still depends on sufficient voltage being received at the coil primary terminals.

With such perfect components, where less than battery voltage is being received by the coils, the likely suspect is faulty wires or connectors. For example, a corroded connection where the negative battery cable attaches to rear of engine, could result in insufficient voltage received at the coils.

Good Fortune!