Block and Head painting

There has been a lot of talk on here lately about high temp paints. Has anyone ever tried using them on the block or the head? Mine are pretty rough looking (metal is age discolored and dulled). I have thought about polishing it up and even started. After a few hours and a few square inches I gave up on that as "too much work."

I am sure that the paint will hold up but I am concerned about it effecting the cooling of the engine. Will the newer ceramic paints (like the dupli-color) still dissipate heat sufficiently to not burn up the engine?

Any one have any input?

I've used VHT Brand (Very High Temp) engine paint and had great results.. even on expansion chambers, cylinders, etc..

www.speco.com.au/vht_guide.html

VHT FlameProof Coating will renew and extend the life of any surface exposed to extremely high temperatures. This unique coating is a matte finish, ceramic base silicone widely used by the automotive industry on exhaust systems and the aerospace industry for jet engines, re-entry vehicles, the Stealth fighter, B-2 bomber and other high temperature applications. VHT FlameProof Coating will withstand temperatures up to 1500ºF (815ºC) and is ideal for use on boilers, hot water pipes, exhaust systems, franklin stoves, heaters, barbecues, furnaces or wherever an extreme temperature coating is needed (* indicates colours that may fade at 1200ºF/648ºC). VHT Flameproof Coating only attains its unique properties after correct curing (refer to the instructions on the can).

Colours available: Flat White (SP101), Flat Black (SP102), Flat Grey (SP104), *Flat Gold (SP105), Flat Silver (SP106), *Flat Yellow (SP108), *Flat Red (SP109), *Flat Blue (SP110), Flat Almond (SP113), *Flat Orange (SP114), Clear (SP115), Flat Aluminium (SP117), White Primer (SP118)

You can also go with:
VHT 550ºF (287ºC) Engine Enamels are available in a wide range of colours, including exact match factory colours. All colours have excellent durability and superior heat and solvent resistance. They are specially formulated to withstand corrosion, rust, salt spray, strong solvents and additives of today's gasoline blends and degreasers. VHT 550ºF (287ºC) Engine Enamels are a unique blend of urethane resins which produce a tough and long-lasting finish for engines, engine accessories or wherever a tough durable heat or chemical resistant finish is needed. Ideal for use on engines, heat registers, hot pipes, farm and garden equipment, boats, motorcycles and watercraft.

Colours available: Holden Orange (SP119), Holden Blue (SP120), Chrysler Hemi-Orange (SP120C) Bright Red (SP121), Pontiac Blue (SP122), Chevy Orange (SP123), Gloss Black (SP124), Ford Dark Blue (SP125), Early Chrysler Blue (SP126), Universal Aluminium (SP127), Gloss Yellow (SP128), Gloss White (SP129), Flat Black (SP130), Ford Green (SP131), Universal Gold (SP132), Chevy V8 Blue (SP133), Ford Light Blue (SP134), GM Blue (SP135), Late Chrysler Blue (SP136), Ford Grey (SP137), New Ford Blue (SP138), GM Satin Black (SP139), Pontiac Metallic Blue (SP142), Magenta (SP754), Ford Competition Blue (SP755), Hot Pink (SP756), Lively Lavender (SP758), Kermit Green (SP760).

Personally, I like a matte look on engine parts, or a brushed aluminum look (scotchbrite pad and WD40)take a little elbow grease but on aluminum, it works darn fast..

This picture below is from www.powdercoater.com Andrews powdercoating is one of the best there is.. (you can see their work a lot on THE SPEED CHANNEL "BUILD OR BUST" show..




That was a shiney engine and he used WD40 and scotch brite pads (from the market) and it looks great, imho.

So there ya have it..

Paint it..

Buff it...

Have some fun!

As far as cooling.. as long as you're doing light coats, it shouldn't be too much of a problem, most engines have some paint / anodizing / powdercoating.. If you're doing the cylinders and it's water cooled, don't sweat it..

www.speco.com.au/vht_motorcycle.html

Post up some pics along the way, k?

Post edited by: JPinLA, at: 2005/11/24 03:47

I used dupli-color 500 degree alumnium for the lower end,and 1200 degree black for the jugs. I've put on 2000 miles this summer,and it still looks great. Especially for $8.

Post edited by: WharfRat, at: 2005/11/24 07:32

any reason not to anodize the parts?

lots of colors available
hard anodize hold up well
it's not too expensive if can find a really usy shop or you ask smaller shop to hold your parts and run them when the get other orders for the same color/finish in.

my shop landlord does machining and fabrication. compared to painted and powder coated parts. the anodized always looks much better after many years 'in the field'.

it's possible to mask what you don't want treated so there should be no problem doing a block with the liner in. i'll ask him about details of this next time i see him...

-Duck