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DupliColor....
- indykaw77
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Shot my 650 tailpiece with duplicolor Enamel, over duplicolor primer, which was prepped with soap and water, 600 wet, more soap and water, and a going over with 800 wet, washed again and dried completely.
Color went on really well (except for a bug! Grrrrrr...), and sat for Fri nite/Sat. Started the clear late this afternoon. Seemed to go on OK, but at 8- 10 inches away per instructions, sure seemed "orange-peely" to me. Ended up sweeping coats a bit closer, but a touch more quickly to avoid curtains and runs. Can said 10 minutes 'tween coats, which I waited, finish all coats in an hr. or wait a week. Check...did that.
As it dried, sure smoothed up alot better than I thought. Gloss isnt what I expected, tho...
So.....what you guys recommend, and how long do I wait, to polish/glaze/otherwise bring out the shine???? And if i cant/dont get it to shine, can I rough it up after curing good and just start again with the color? Can instructions are less than good.
Thanks
p.s.......1st shot at rattlecanning something important
Kawasaki Motorcycles...because cars lean th wrong way!
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- DanOz7Five0
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The first pic is mine unbuffed and the second is a final shot
Post edited by: danoz7five0, at: 2005/10/16 19:43
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- indykaw77
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Used enamel. Clear isnt foggy, just was expecting more gloss, I guess.
OH!...I like yer reading material.....2nd pic, upper left corner....
Kawasaki Motorcycles...because cars lean th wrong way!
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- DanOz7Five0
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I got the turtle wax polishing compound. Shot clear this afternoon. How long I wait to polish it?
Used enamel. Clear isnt foggy, just was expecting more gloss, I guess.
OH!...I like yer reading material.....2nd pic, upper left corner....
I cant really say when to start polishing. Id wait a day and then start in a small inconspicous spot and see what happens.
I like my Playboys like I like my motorcycles, old. No seriously though I "inherited" a 20 year collection from my dad. Made a few good bucks on EBay with the oldest ones and havent been seeing them sell as good lately and the 1980 issues are a PITA to sell
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- ronboskz650sr
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Post edited by: ronboskz650sr, at: 2005/10/16 22:34
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- indykaw77
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"orange peel" kinda went away as the clear dried....lot smoother than when it sprayed. Will see how it polishes up when I get back.....gotta go to upstate New York this week....
Kawasaki Motorcycles...because cars lean th wrong way!
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- ronboskz650sr
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- indykaw77
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Kawasaki Motorcycles...because cars lean th wrong way!
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- BARNEYHYPHEN
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- ronboskz650sr
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With lacquer, the solvent evaporates, and that's that. New solvent will melt the paint (and enough solvent will actually make it look like wet paint again), that's why you can recoat it anytime...it bonds with the lower layer. The solvent in lacquer is a hotter mixture than enamel, too. That's why enamel goes over lacquer but not the other way around.
With enamel, the solvent evaporates, then a chemical reaction continues to "Cure" the paint under the surface film. That's why it can be dry and you can still press your fingernail into it and leave a dent. Once it's cured, the orignal solvent won't melt it anymore. Before it's cured it will...that's why it will wrinkle or lift if you recoat it between the dry time and the cure time on the can. A different solvent, like the one in lacquer, may melt cured enamel, but not always, depends on if there's a hardener, or if it's baked, etc. Lacquer doesn't require that long a wait before buffing. I've sanded lacquer well within an hour of painting it, and buffed it just a few hours later. Still, patience is a virtue that can help avoid a mistake due to extended drying time if it's cold or humid. If you can stand it, I'd wait until the next day for sanding lacquer, too, then buff right afterwards...That's how I did this...
Post edited by: ronboskz650sr, at: 2005/10/18 00:42
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