Lowering front forks...an offer

G'day folks.

Several months ago I purchased a set of 1978 KZ1000A2 forks off of eBay. I opened them up, removed the contents (without really looking at them)...replaced the fork seals. After reassembling, I swapped these out with the forks on one of my 1977 KZ1000A1's (on which the fork lowers were trashed). Went for a ride and noted the the front end was about 2" lower than when I started. Got home, pulled the fork springs and they were not standard length (no s**t Sherlock). Turns out the guy I bought them from had probably swapped out fork springs to lower the bike. I replaced the springs with those from my original trashed front end and all was well.

Standard KZ1000A springs = 533mm X 25mm, 10 coils/3 inches.

My short springs = 463mm X 25mm, 11 coils/3 inches.

So, these coils are shorter and have less rebound. Any take a gander at what they are? It occurred to me this is a instant and easy way to lower your KZ1000 (A/B models). If anyone wants to do this, I'll swap your old stock springs for these

Post edited by: Mcdroid, at: 2006/10/22 07:41

Bump

hang on im thinking! ive got a set of forks in back of wifes van i forgot about,have to sneak them out without her noticing theyre in there!:whistle: :Pive got a 4" dropped I-beam axle in there i need to pull out also:S

Post edited by: wireman, at: 2006/10/23 05:48

wouldn't that cause some seriously dangerous topping ?

if the spring isn't long enough to cover the entire distance from damper to the top of the tubes, that leaves space for it to rebound way too much unless you swap out shorter tubes, right?

pyxen wrote:

wouldn't that cause some seriously dangerous topping ?

if the spring isn't long enough to cover the entire distance from damper to the top of the tubes, that leaves space for it to rebound way too much unless you swap out shorter tubes, right?

Or just use a spacer.

but that defeats the purpose - as a spacer would just push your trees back to where they were, and not lower a thing. You'd just get less travel

pyxen wrote:

but that defeats the purpose - as a spacer would just push your trees back to where they were, and not lower a thing. You'd just get less travel

I concur with Pyxen about less travel when using a spacer to adapt too-short springs into the forks. Would think it best to use proper spring lengths for the forks under most circumstances. The spacer would be a quick interim fix if needed to get back on the road until able to install the proper length springs.

Although some handlebar types (drag style?) may not allow sufficient tank clearance (especially at lock), those seeking a lower front end often simply raise the fork tubes in the triple clamps. Probably effects rake and trail (adversely would be my guess) unless compensated by also lowering the rear end.

Happy trails.

That is the way Progressive sells "lowering kits"... the springs are shorter but you must use longer spacers so that they won't klunk when you go over a bump. This is pretty common on cruisers but I don't think they ever sold kits for KZs/standards so I think someone just put in some shorter springs from another bike model. Any spring from the same diameter fork tube would work fine. Just use spacer which give the shorter springs some pre-load. PVC works fine but metal washers should be used.

but it doesn't actually lower anything, right?

I think the sffect that was being gone after was a diffrent responce from the spring its self.. often you need to look at the "wire " thickness of the spring, as well as the length. If its thicker wire stock and is shorter it will rebound quicker, thus stiffening the ride. Some folks feel this is desireable way to , stop the "pogo" effect of older forks. I personaly put progressive springs in my 1980 750/4 and stopped using the air fork effect. For me it saved my seals. I then used a forged fork brace and stopped the tiny wiggle you some times feel in a hard lined curve. As I'm a BIG boy and I felt I had to beef up my ageing forks, I looked at a few ways to go about it.

pyxen wrote:

but it doesn't actually lower anything, right?

it depends on where the spacer is placed. you can lower forks by just adding a spacer in the right spot, by placing it in another spot you just make the ride stiffer. there have been discussions on this, do a search;)

Okay - so is the option to use a spacer around the bottom of the tubes thats runs between the seals and the bottom clip-on race? That'd keep the balance of the tubes in the lowers and allow the shorter spring to be compressed..

The only real challenge there would be finding a spacer that works..though I guess as long as the spacer tube wall isn't thicker than 2-3mm you'd be fine, since the seal is about 4-6mm thick. You'd need a really really close to 36mm ID though, to ensure that it doesnt move around very much.

Post edited by: pyxen, at: 2006/10/24 07:44