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new drive chain, more questions!
- tcbradbury98
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- tcbradbury98
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- neilage66
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If you have the rear wheel full forward, can you measure to see how many more links you need than what you got now?
Dennis Kirk or no...a new chain should generally always come with a new master link.
I think you count the rivets (not including the open link ends where the master goes) from one end to the other to get the actual number of chain links. Someone here can tell you fo sho.
Good luck!
Here's a good link for you too:
Chains and Such
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- tcbradbury98
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- wireman
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- darkwolf29a
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In theory the front sprocket is easy to change. You need to remove the engine cover, that means removing the shift lever, left footpeg and starter cover. Now your sprocket is clearly visible, flatten the lockwasher, put on a big socket and remove the nut. This is when the "in theory easy to remove" comes in, the nut can be anywhere from finger tight to 300 ft/lb tight. Once you get the sprocket off a 1 tooth change should not require a different length of chain. I should change my "all chains come with a masterlink" to every chain I've ever seen has come with a masterlink. In my mind if it doesn't come with a masterlink it must be one of those great deals,(otherwise known as a Chinese POS). How in the World do they expect you to use a chain without a masterlink? I suspect different brands of chain have slightly different diameter pins ect, "brand A" masterlink is not a good idea to use with a "brand B" chain.
Working on taking my front sprocket off now. I think it's got the 300ft/lb tight. Any thoughts on how to remove it, without a impact wrench? I'm trying to get the money together for one, but it will be a few months before I can.
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- wireman
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- JMKZHI
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- darkwolf29a
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I went to ebay, and got an IR impact wrench and compressor for $120 total. I'm most pleased, and that is much cheaper than I was thinking by looking at various online stores, and checking various home centers. :silly:
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