Steering column lock replacement

I have a 1978 KZ1000.  I found a nice replacement set of locks for the ignition, seat and steering column.  I have attached a photo of the set.

My question is, how do I remove the old steering column lock cylinder?  It looks like the only way is to hammer it out with a socket extension.

The old one still has the locking pin in the cylinder but if you try to turn it with the key, it gets stuck in the extended position.

Any ideals?


 

Hi Mark 
Welcome to KZRider
I fixed your picture for you to be full size
Next post please click the insert all tab to complete your picture install. 
Dave

Mark_KZ1000 wrote:

My question is, how do I remove the old steering column lock cylinder?  It looks like the only way is to hammer it out with a socket extension.

You don't want to do that!!!






 

There's a tiny set screw in the lock housing behind the front brake line junction.

Moose is correct. The ignition switch you posted will not work for a 1000. Shown is a 4 pin for the Z1/Kz900. Your 1978 will require a 6 pin ignition. 

Best case would be try spraying thin lube (something like gun oil) up into the key slot and down the pin from the top.  Some heat from a blow dryer or heat gun on low will help thin the now glue-llike 45+ yr. old grease inside the worm gear threads that lift & lower the pin.  Patience & taking your time are your best friends here.  That should make it move freely.

If you decide to replace the fork lock, there's a very small setscrew in the rear of the triple clamp that holds the fork lock into the lower triple clamp.  Might be easy to miss if it's hole is full of grunge / rust or been painted over.  The setscrew locates into the dimple on the outside of the fork lock body.  It's a hardened setscrew with a straight slot.  The setscrew is very likely rusted in place. Trying to loosen the setscrew may be an exercise in futility.  Soaking the setscrew from both ends in good penetrating oil for a few weeks (at minimum) may help.  So will heat, and a few lateral strikes with a pin punch.  If it's rusted tight, the screwdriver used will likely twist the tip of the blade before the setscrew breaks loose, and / or a piece of the setscrew will break off at the slot, leaving no way to apply twisting force.  We've had to drill out a few of these using  a left-twist carbide bit & a drill press. It's much easier to center the drill bit when both sides of the setscrew's slot are present & unbroken. We've had to enlarge the setscrew hole slightly after extracting leftover setscrew debris, tap new threads & use a slightly larger setscrew with a conical tip.

  Forcing the lock out of it's hole by hammering it with the setscrew still in place will probably destroy a lock that might just need some TLC, and leave the nub of the setscrew extending into the bore, making it very difficult if not impossible to insert a new fork lock body into the hole.without damaging force.

Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Mine, (77-kz 1000 A) looks like this.  I can see the set screw , but cant photo it.  Good luck...

I will try to find what you suggested.  Thanks!
 

Mikaw,

FYI, the switch I received is a six pin.  It's already installed and working as expected.

Thanks!
 

urankjj,

That is a great photo!  It actually shows the head of the set screw.  Now I'm thinking that I have to remove the brake fluid junction to get access.

I should be able to do that without disconnecting the brake line, correct?

Mark
 

slmjim+Z1BEBE,

Another user sent me a great photo that will help.

Mine is not rusted solid... it just won't retract easily because the internal threads are worn out.  I can retract it if I put a screw driver over the top of the pin.

This is something I wouldn't normally worry about but I'm in the process of selling the bike and tying to get everything functional.

Thanks!