Brake lines touch front fender

Not sure if this will help or if possible, but put a spacer behind the bracket to pull the brake line further out from the fender.

Did you lowering the frontend??? Your speedo and tach cabel also rubbing on the front fender!!!

 

Wookie58 wrote:

martin_csr wrote:

Another option. Maybe unbolt the caliper, then spin it around? But this may have the opposite effect of forcing the brake lines too far outward. and might stress the brake lines?


 

Not sure about the USA but in the UK a twisted flexi-pipe is an MOT fail 

 

No MOT in the U.S. Some states have annual safety inspections, but in none of the states I have lived in would they care one whit about a flex line that was not clearly about to rupture. In Texas, if the lights and horn work, and the brake levers make some pressure and there is something resembling a fragment of a baffle in the exhaust, the machine is good to go. Oh, and the tires should have some tread visible.

Can you please post you picture of the brake line splitter on the lower triple tree. The angle of the brake lines don't look right.

TexasKZ wrote:

Wookie58 wrote:

martin_csr wrote:

Another option. Maybe unbolt the caliper, then spin it around? But this may have the opposite effect of forcing the brake lines too far outward. and might stress the brake lines?



 

Not sure about the USA but in the UK a twisted flexi-pipe is an MOT fail 

 

No MOT in the U.S. Some states have annual safety inspections, but in none of the states I have lived in would they care one whit about a flex line that was not clearly about to rupture. In Texas, if the lights and horn work, and the brake levers make some pressure and there is something resembling a fragment of a baffle in the exhaust, the machine is good to go. Oh, and the tires should have some tread visible.

Wow, I guess that's both a good and bad thing, good if you are into modifying stuff but on the down side there must be some shocking death traps roaming the country   The UK MOT is tough but the TÜV in Germany is much tighter. Don't know if you have seen some of Callum's posts regarding the hoops he has had to jump through to be able to legally use his bikes (he can't even add or remove a nose cone "post test" without going back for recertification)

will do!

Kelly E wrote:

Can you please post you picture of the brake line splitter on the lower triple tree. The angle of the brake lines don't look right.

Too late now for our friend gordone, but this problem is yet another reason I prefer to make my own brake lines from Earl's parts.  You can adjust clocking of the ends, length, and select whatever angle ends you want, to avoid such problems.  A lot of guys like to run one line to one caliper, then feed the second caliper with a jumper line, going caliper to caliper, jumping over the fender.  Some OEM's set up the lines like this too.  Anyway, custom is good.

In the picture above, it looks like it would be possible to loosen the banjo bolts at the splitter and rotate the lines forward so the hose ends are perpendicular to the centerline of the bike, so the hoses go outward toward the forks instead of toward the engine. The banjo stops may have to be gnawed off to do that.
I suppose ditching the fender entirely could solve the problem, but custom hoses might be a better choice.

good observation!
No, but I havent any spacer for preload… should I have? 

Scirocco wrote:

Did you lowering the frontend??? Your speedo and tach cabel also rubbing on the front fender!!!

 

Some 20-30 mm spacer should help to lift up the front end and give you more preload.
Take some pics of your bike front end and brake line splitter please as Kelly E. wrote.

Finaly been able to take the photos:

 

It's really hard to tell from your pictures because it's too dark. Usually the ends have a 15° bend so they clear the fender and help the turn heading up to the splitter. Yours look straight at the top and I can't see the caliper end in any of your pictures.