Pulling to the left

Alright, so I've had the problem for a while now and I cannot figure out what could be the problem and I don't have the budget to just shoot in the dark. Here's the issue:

Whenever I ride my bike it seems to pull to the left. Sometimes this pull is slight, and other times it's so bad it makes me pull over out of fear.

My original thoughts were that it was the alignment between the rear and front tire, but I've checked that the way my Clymer says to (with a block of wood appropriatly cut) and various other ways my physics and trig background allows me to think of.

The only thing about adjusting the chain tensionors that I think I might be doing wrong is my Clymer says:

1. Place the transmission in NEUTRAL.
2. Loosen the torque link nut.

But it doesn't show me what the torque link nut is. So I've never loosened it. Perhaps this means that my rear wheel never did get shifted?

It also says to Loosen the axle nut. But what do you use to loosen that thing? I couldn't move it a bit.

Anyone's suggestions would be greatly appreciated. And don't worry, I've been here for a while so if you want to make a sarcastic remark; I have a sense of humor (hehe, refers to another post I read).

I once used a 10" crescent wrench to loosen my axle nut, most of the time I use a 1 1/8" or 1 1/4" box end wrench..I forget what size it takes. Just make sure you remove the cotter pin before you try to loosen the nut.

the torque link is the bar that attaches to the rear brake caliper mount see pic

That could be a problem, seeing how I have a B model, thus a drum rear break. Can I assume I don't have a torque link then?

Drum brakes still have a bar, it's down below the swingarm on the right side.
Just wondering,did you get your sense of humor at WalMart?:evil: :woohoo: :evil:

Naahhh. Target. It was cheaper. And it's a thread that you posted in that my comment refers too. Hehe. That's ironic.

Post edited by: Corith, at: 2006/06/21 07:59

The torque bar goes from the swingarm to the drum brake hub to keep it from turning with the wheel when the brakes are applied. On disk brake models it goes from the swingarm to the brake caliper to keep the caliper from turning with the disk when braking.

Usually the toolkit came with the axel mut wrench but as these bukes are old, the toolkit has usually moved without a forwarding address. Best bet at that point is a an adjustable cresent wrench. Most books contain a view of the tool kit and you should assemble your own to take with you on the road. It can prove very valuable and could be the difference in you riding home or walking.

Now I have been on very good behavior and trying to represent in a very grown up and sane manner. This could be because all those nasty childish left of center brain cells were destroyed by an night of hedonistic debachery with cavorting and sitting in smoke filled teepees telling stories with hand sign and drinking cactus laced curdled buffalo milk or I was abducted by height challenged aliens on a dark country road and had a horrible accident with the anal probe where my funny bone was extracted sideways. But really I'm just a little tired. Hope you enjoy your time here at the site.
BTW: I think I know the thread you reference with the sarcastic thing. The alien thing should happen...if you know what I mean... WALMART!:woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :sick: :woohoo:

Werewolfx wrote:

...Just make sure you remove the cotter pin...

... before you try to loosen the nut.

:whistle:

"Lookin' good Mr. Kottaaaaair!"

Best practice of replacing removed cotter pins precludes "Welcome back!" joke...