1982 KZ 750 CSR FORK SEALS

CHARLESRAD


Member
Posts: 8 
Re:Front Fork Rebuild Procedure - 2005/12/13 04:28

Got the Kawasaki Factory service manual for my 1982 kz twin 750 csr m1 fork seals are leaking, and I am just waiting for the parts to get here to start this job first time with this bike, However the factory service manual does show the procedure step by step and it is straight forward if you have the (special tools). The first is a (front fork cylinder holder handle a very long T handle. With secondly the (special tool) the front fork cylinder adapter that holds the piston and cylinder unit so you can remove the allen head on the bottom of the fork. Looks easy in the factory manual guy is doing the procedure on the floor one hand holding the t handle tool and the other hand holding the socket wrench with the allen bit on the wrench turning the allen head out of the fork. Guys it looks like I have two choices try to findthe special tool from my cycle shop or take the fork to them to remove the cylinder and spring out. I am not sure about the wooden dowel method my luckis such I would snap the dowel off in the fork. the manual lists the part numbers for both 57001-183 and 57001-1011 (special tool part numbers) cylinder fork handle T and cylinder fork adapter looks like a plumb bob. good luck everyone!!!!

95% of the time you don't need any special tools except an air tool to try to loosen the allen bolt. Keep your cap on the top of the fork leg, keeping spring pressure in the fork, hook your air tool up to the allen and it spins right off most the time. Reassemble same way using the air tool. If you take your forks into a Kawasaki dealer, I highly doubt they would bother to use the special tools as they probably don't have them. My bet is air tools. I've changed about 30 sets of seals, so maybe 60 in all, had trouble with only 2 of them that I can remember.


Member
Posts: 8 
Re:Front Fork Rebuild Procedure - 2005/12/13 04:28

Got the Kawasaki Factory service manual for my 1982 kz twin 750 csr m1 fork seals are leaking, and I am just waiting for the parts to get here to start this job first time with this bike, However the factory service manual does show the procedure step by step and it is straight forward if you have the (special tools). The first is a (front fork cylinder holder handle a very long T handle. With secondly the (special tool) the front fork cylinder adapter that holds the piston and cylinder unit so you can remove the allen head on the bottom of the fork. Looks easy in the factory manual guy is doing the procedure on the floor one hand holding the t handle tool and the other hand holding the socket wrench with the allen bit on the wrench turning the allen head out of the fork. Guys it looks like I have two choices try to findthe special tool from my cycle shop or take the fork to them to remove the cylinder and spring out. I am not sure about the wooden dowel method my luckis such I would snap the dowel off in the fork. the manual lists the part numbers for both 57001-183 and 57001-1011 (special tool part numbers) cylinder fork handle T and cylinder fork adapter looks like a plumb bob. good luck everyone!!!![/quote]

If you don't have air tools an electric impact wrench works pretty well. I have used a cut off broomstick handle as the "Special tool", just have to carve the end a little to get it to fit in the damper. I only use it when the above method don't work though.

I appreciate the help and suggestions I have air tools and a large work shop used for my lawn and landscape business. Through the years I have found , and or learned that with sensitive aluminum parts, and for that matter anything that I might think would break under the torque of an impact wrench has. What size impact tool did you all use and what FT /LBS of torque was applied?

The bottom bolt that you need to remove is steel, and the part that it screws into is ateel, it just passes through the aluminum fork leg. When you tighten the bolt upon reassembly, just use the torque value listed in the manual.

I keep trying to spell steel with two L's for some reason :lol: :lol:

Post edited by: steell, at: 2005/12/14 02:04

steell wrote:

If you don't have air tools an electric impact wrench works pretty well. I have used a cut off broomstick handle as the "Special tool", just have to carve the end a little to get it to fit in the damper. I only use it when the above method don't work though.

Funny jarhead used a broomstick on the forks he did for me.