Bike Fried!!!!

Hey guys, as you all know, my bike fried last year (wiring) and i wanted to know if its a good idea to change ALL electrical components (sp) since i'll have it strip'd down. I know the ignition burned, headlamp, starter button started to melt, harness. So when all this stuff goes ape-sh!t does it also affect the coils and CDI unit? Im ready to start buildin her up now lil by lil. So i've come to the almighty KzRider for tech support! Thanks in advance Bro's.

25 hits and no response? Not even a boobie insert?:huh: Dang did i actually stump somebody?

You may measure your coils primary and secondary resistance. Values may be found with search either here or in the archives.
If they measure good, you may connect them and observe the spark. If the spark is pretty, then the coils are good.

I can't think of anything that would fry the headlamp, short of disconnecting the battery and pluggin the bike into a wall socket. Even then, I'd expect the breaker to trip before the lamp went.

If your harness is Foobarred just wire up each sircuit individualy and then bundle them all together. Less chance for cornfusion this way.

-Duck

Or, swap me for my 1980 GS1000G

do we know the cause of said problem? i suspect maybe the reg/rect. fried and it pumped all sorts of AC voltage in to the bike. (i guessed once if i had a good one and blew all my bulbs out) if thats the case i would guess the CDI did not like it, the coil i would bet will be ok but test it to be sure. making a new harness while challenging is really not that hard. if you ditch the turn signals really should not take more than a couple hours to build.

I'd just change out what's burnt. Replace fried wires with new sections. Then see what you've got. If it won't run, go from there. Why change things you don't know are defective?

need more info on what fried...

sorry to hear about it.

figure out what accessorys you want to use and fill in blanks between.theres a lot of extra wiring on these bikes in stock form.

Im really not sure how it fried. :huh: The bike had fell over during a tow and im guessing that it pinched a wire. After We got it off da trailer, I change the clutch cable (reason why it was towed) then started to adjust the cable. Started the bike a few time and it ran of course. Then i turned the handle bars and it shut off. So I attempted to restart the bike a few times and nothin! Key on, key off, on, off, on, off and nothin (of course starter button in between). Then all of a sudden smoke started comin out from the headlight, ignition, starter switch on hand control, uderneath gas tank....... So I rip'd off the seat and disconnected the battery and here we are a year and a half later.:whistle: Oh yeah, I just want the bare minimum on the wiring. Lights and rear turning sig's, License plate, Brake...

Post edited by: JUSTICE114, at: 2006/10/13 10:15

Duck wrote:

You may measure your coils primary and secondary resistance. Values may be found with search either here or in the archives.
If they measure good, you may connect them and observe the spark. If the spark is pretty, then the coils are good.

I can't think of anything that would fry the headlamp, short of disconnecting the battery and pluggin the bike into a wall socket. Even then, I'd expect the breaker to trip before the lamp went.

If your harness is Foobarred just wire up each sircuit individualy and then bundle them all together. Less chance for cornfusion this way.

-Duck



Or, swap me for my 1980 GS1000G

Whats the condition on the GS1000?????:whistle:

runs good but ratty looking.
too many more interesting projects.

Post edited by: Duck, at: 2006/10/13 10:28

Got pics? Location? :huh:

i'll try to put a pic in for you. i got a fuse panel from Auto Zone, mounted it and the reg/rectifier to a fabbed up battery box. 30a toggle for power to the fuses, one curcuit for the headlamp/tail, one for brake, one for ignition. then your done