Newbie to forum needs HELP!

Hey all, I'm new to this forum but not to KZ's. I've got a 1981 Kz440 Ltd that has been killing me for over a year now!Background: After riding a bit and turning off bike.. she would sometimes not start again. I was having to choke it sometimes and not others. Finally one day, she gave up the ghost. Turns over.. no spark. The carbs were rebuilt before it died. After death, and finding no spark, new battery, plug wires, plugs, has great compression even on both sides, gets gas to chambers, stator checks ok, I am getting 12v at the coil w/switch on, 4ohms primary, 11+ secondary, changed the igniter, can't find any shorts, fuses all check ok...... WHAT AM I MISSING!!!! Any and all replies are more than welcome and appreciated.....

Tanks.

When you did the coil resistance checks, did you check between the primary and secondary windings? The resistance should be near infinity. Also, check all connections (both primary and secondary) to frame ground, the reading should be near infinity as well. With all that you described, I'm suspecting coil breakdown.

- Nate >>

If you have power to the coils, and no spark, then I would suspect the coils or the ignitor.

I think the coils are testable at bike shops.

If you get one spark when you turn the key off, your ignitor is bad (the field isn't collapsing when it should).

Barring that .. check all your ground connections.

I hate problems like this (but probably not as much as you hate it)

Yes, I have thought about the coils several times... and tested them several times. Testing the secondaries, plug cap to plug cap (is that correct?) I get 11+ ohms. Clymer (all I have) says should test between 10 and 15 ohms. The primaries (terminal to terminal) gives me reading of 0.0004. Maybe I'm misinterpreting the reading... which grounds should I pay attention to? I've checked batt ground and igniter ground, not sure wher else to look at this point. I have checked around at all the local auto parts stores and none of them do any kind of testing for coils... the local bike shop is laughable. It kills me to look at it and just scratch my head....

Your manual says 10-15K Ohms not 10-15 Ohms. I suspect you got 11K Ohms (11,000) and not 11 Ohms. In any case, I dimly am aware of things points/condensor related and if you have a bad condensor, the plugs won't fire. I have never heard of checking between the primary and secondary windings and you have already performed the coil tests that I know of and the readings seem fine. Check the wire to your points condensor and if you see no obvious break in continuity, replace the points and condensor You will need a manual for setting points gap/dwell. I haven't done it in so long, I can't be of much help... would have to just look it up in a manual as you will.

Yes, you are correct on the K ohms. I have OEM electronic ignition, not points... will I still have a condeser somewhere? That is something I have not looked for... or would know where to look. These Clymer manuals aren't as specific as I wish they could be, and some items are just about skipped over all together. The local shop here is of no help... they only cater to the newer breeds of MC. Garage shops want cash and most look shady. I feel helpless on getting her up and going, but also feel there is some miniscuel.... ever so tiny eliment that I am overlooking.. but where..I don't want to miss annother season of no ride.

here is a site that has testing procedures for you ignition www.kz400.com/Workshop%20manual%20bilder...ronig%20ignition.pdf that should help you . good luck

Since you are new to the forum you may not know about kz400.com/ , the absolute best 400/440 resorce on the planet
There is a wiring diagram on that site that I believe covers your bike, take a look at it and then check the ground for the ignitor (the wiring diagram will show it).

Wow! Rammy posted while I was typing

Post edited by: steell, at: 2006/03/16 11:38

I had a very similar problem with my 82 440 LTD. After doing everything you have done, I found out that it was the pick-up coil for the electronic ignition advancer. $20 for a used one at a local shop and she was running beautifully again.

Just in case I am using the wrong name for the part is is in the round cover on the right side of the engine.

Hope that helps.