Fitting a Dyna 2000

Fitting a Dyna 2000, DDK2-1, on a Z1000-A2

Please note this is not a definative guide on how to do it, it is just how I did it this morning. There are a couple of things I would have done differently, and a couple of things I wish I had before starting.

Here is the Kit as removed from the box (only showing one of the coils )



as you can see, you get the coils, control box, wiring loom, bag of fixings, the crank rotor (replaces auto advancer) and the dual sensor pickup plate (replaces points back plate)



Firstly you need to disconnect the battery (may as well put it on charge at this time), remove the tank, and remove the old coils, (remember to write down where the wires go)
Then it is time to remove the points cover, and strip out the points and auto advancer, keep hold of the center bolt and hex washer as you will need this...



Next it is time to fit the new coils, they are not + or - specific so it makes no difference which way you connect the wires...



I decided to use the original coil wires, as seen here, but you don't have too, as there is plenty of length on the new loom to reach, although you would have to run an extended 12v+ (red and yellow) from the connector to the coils.



It is then time to mount the new coils, and here we find the first problem, the mounting stud is very close to the coil voltage screws and can easily short across.



I used insulating tape to get over the problem, but I will be changing this for some electrical heat shrink...



Next it is time to mount the crank rotor, and trigger sensor plate, using the original screws from the points plate.



This then brings us to our next problem with this set-up, the length of the cable coming from the trigger unit is too short, and leaves the connector block in the open where ever you run it, it really could do with being 20" longer, as you can see I ran mine under the clutch coverand up behind the kickstart. But I am going to have to seal it with silicone as I can see the road dirt and weather causing problems here.



It was then time to start tidying up the loom...



Here is a shot showing where my control box is going, and also how I have run the wiring loom around the frame.



At the moment I have had to secure the control box with cable ties, but I will be mounting it to a plate that is to be fixed to the bracket with the screw in, that can be seen in the picture.



Here is a view of the front of the control unit, showing the timing light, and both contro; dials.



So that was it, the supplied instructions are simple to follow, and can be read here.....

www.dynaonline.com/english/instruct/DDK1-5_2-1_3-2.pdf

it is worth making a note that you will need cable ties, and insulating tape, a basic hand tool kit, I had a couple of bits left over in the kit that I have no idea where they go, two big socket head screws 6x60mm ? but as this kit covers a couple of different bikes they are probably used in one of those.

Thanks for taking the time to share your experiences mounting a Dyna 2000 igntion.

I mounted my Dyna 2000 kit about two months ago -- my GEREX CDI finally died after 27 years. Since I got rid of the chain oiler on my '73 Z1-900 a long time ago, I mounted the Dyna 2000 unit on a homemade aluminum and rubber mounting fixture that I, in turn, bolted to the left side of battery box (under the left side cover). But to make room for the Dyna 2000, I had to relocate my horn which I had mounted under that left side cover for many years - I had some frame bracing welded under the frame's steering head area that did not permit the horn to be re-mounted to its OEM position.

You are right about that cable coming from the trigger. It's much too short. And as you said, it will gather much road grim and moisture, so I waterproofed it to avoid future problems. I also ensured that it was mounted away from the engine.

I also encountered the very same coil mounting issues but mine were complicated a even more because of the fact that I have a pair of triangular steel plates welded to the frame behind the steering head area and immediately above where the coils are situated.

But such are the things we sometimes have to do deal with in order to improve our old Zs and keep them on the road.