Advice for all with WG Coil rewire

Hello all. I haven't posted anything in a loooooooong time. Just thought I'd pass along some info for you guys and gals.

I have enjoyed the fantastic WG coil rewire for about 1 year now. Lately, I've had a problem with my bike losing power and cutting out on me.

After wrangling with my troubleshooting routine, I figured out I wasn't getting spark all the time. I decided to disassemble my relay for the rewire. WHAT a mess:S The contacts inside were very rusted. The relay unit looked as though it were sealed tightly. Soooo, if anyone is having a similar problem with low spark energy, fouling plugs, and intermittent spark- look at your relay. It may need replacing if it has been exposed to the elements.

Hope this helps :side:

bigkaw815 wrote:

....The contacts inside were very rusted. The relay unit looked as though it were sealed tightly. Soooo, if anyone is having a similar problem with low spark energy, fouling plugs, and intermittent spark- look at your relay. It may need replacing if it has been exposed to the elements...

What brand relay was it? I'm using Bosch, and I hope it's sealed tight! :blink:

But these are good points. I'll pile on...

Not to speak for WG, but I'm pretty sure he always recommends using a pigtail too, to help keep all connections free as possible from contamination.

Though what bigkaw815describes was an *internal* problem, my tips have to do mostly with the outside:

Buy additional relays to swap them out in an emergency, or if they they are slowly going bad as bigkaw815 describes. Carry an extra in your toolkit! They can be bought cheaply here at Parts Express . I use this relay in combination with this pigtail, also from Parts Express .

Use dielectric grease on the contacts to help keep corrosion at bay.

Though WG warned me against it, I slipped my entire relay/pigtail inside a bicycle inner tube section. I cut it longer than the relay/pigtail, so that I could slip the combo in and still have an extension of rubber to bolt to the frame, making it rubber-mounted, and holding it in place, as well as reasonably protecting it from the elements. Of course, I check it every long once-in-a-while to be sure there's nothing growing or living in there...

Good luck!


Post edited by: Biquetoast, at: 2007/08/23 08:27

I also did the WG mod, with great results. But, I have reason to believe I have the intermittant spark problem. I've checked/cleaned all wiring/connectors. While the trouble-shooting process points to my original coil(s) going bad, this thread intrigued me. However, I'm not sure what relay is being addressed. My -81 KZ1000 has the electronic rather than points, so I'm assuming the relay issue does not relate to my bike? Or am I missing something here? Thanks.

Norseman wrote:

I also did the WG mod, with great results....... However, I'm not sure what relay is being addressed.....

Maybe we're not talking about the same thing. The whole point of the mod in question is to install an automotive-type relay to supply power directly to the coil when the "run" switch is on. That's the relay I'm writing about.

Great additional tips, Biquetoast. And yes, if you have not installed the WG Coil rewire modification to your coils, then this is not for you. If you have not ever changed your coils, I'd inspect them very carefully. They often crack on the plastic casing, causing loss of power and eventual failure.

I should have been more specific- the rust and gunk was on the inside of my relay. It was a bosch. I'm looking into alternatives to this brand. The seal is very loose.

Nah, you were specific enough, bigkaw. I just didn't consider the new relay with the mod (probably because I just did the mod a few weeks back), my'bad.

I do have one question, though, if you don't mind a little hijacking of your thread. I tested the ohms on my coils (81 KZ1000), and got exactly 2.0 on both. What I can't seem to get an answer on is whether that's a decent output, or if it's low. I am getting intermittant failure to fire, resulting in jerking/clunking in all gears when accelerating and at constant, and it's slowly getting worse.

The bike has new sparkplug wires/caps and new plugs. Thoroughly cleaned carbs, new carbholders, valve clearance perfect, tuned with Morgan Colortune, synchronized to perfection with the Morgan Carbtune. Also cleaned and lubed the auto advancer per manual.

I'm trying to figure out if replacing the coils with new Dyna S 3.0 ohm coils would solve the issue, or perhaps the ignitor is failing. I'm stumped here, and could really use some help. Again, sorry to hijack thread, but hoping someone can offer some insight...

I may be wrong but i think the stock coils on an 81 with factory electronic ign. are supposed to be 1.5 ohm think i remember reading that in my Clymers.

Which relay did you use? Part # would be good.

Thanks for the response, racer54 and 76LTD. I don't know for sure what the coils are, but the factory manual states the resistance window is 1.8 - 2.8 ohm. Also, Rob over at Z1 Enterprises told me he recommends the 3.0 ohm dyna coil as a replacement.

I don't have the relay part number, but it was the one WiredGeorge recommended, purchased at AutoZone, it has 12VDC - 40Amp printed on the front together with the four numbers (30-85-86-87). I believe the gentleman at AutoZone said it was for a Chevy.

I do have a clunky shifter which once in awhile will miss a gear, typically between third and fourth, if I don't firmly shift. I am planning on rebuilding the transmission this winter, although I'm still disappointed that I need to after only 12,000 miles total on the bike. Other than that, I can't imagine it's the transmission that's causing the bad jerking and faultering, it has to be misfiring. I sure wish I could figure it out...