not the volt reg not the stator

hi everyone>>> i just changed my stator and my volt reg on my 77 kz1000 due to the not so great advice from my local bike shop(i think he just wanted my cash)
anyway the bike wasnt charging before or after the swap... i noticed the main fuse is really hot while running... anyone know the next step or a reliable shop in nassau county or queens ny??
billy :sick:

If you changed the stator and regulator and it still doesn't charge, could be a rectifier. But we need more info.

What's the voltage at now..when at idle...and when at 3,000 RPM's?

it will start out with a fresh 12v then as the bike runs you can count down with it until the bike just dies...i was on the parkway when it first happened it kinda felt like iwas runnin out of gas and then iwas kickin kickin but nothing...ididnt kno it was the battery until i got home and checked it stone dead

One of Your stator wires has a break in it perhaps?(there's 3 coming out of the stator cover,and there could be a break in one of them.)
Like mariozappa mentioned...get some readings(after You charge the battery up)of what kind of voltage You're getting at idle,AND at 3-4K.
You also might want to look into upgrading the reg/rec set-up to a modern one.For about $100,You could get rid of all the old-school stuff,and have new.Easy to install,and well worth the money.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=445

the voltage reg that i installed says its also a rectifier it was an aftermarket part... with that do i need to eliminate something?
the battery starts with 12v then quickly drops to 11v then at 3k it keeps droppin into the tens
thanks... i will check the stator wires tonight

by the way sandy i just looked at the link you gave me and thats the exact unit i installed...

faas454 wrote:

by the way sandy i just looked at the link you gave me and thats the exact unit i installed...

When DID You install that unit?All wires are hooked up,with a good connection?Ground wire for sure has a good connection?
Sounds like You might HAVE an issue with the stator wires.
How old is the battery?Is it full(topped off)?

After checking your ground wires and with a new battery. You need to do an amp-draw test. With all possible electrical loads on, you should still have a Positive 1 to 3 amps @4000 rpm.

With engine idling, remove your ground wire from the battery, set your amp-meter up, then start swithching all your loads on (Hi beam, brake light, turn signals or flashers) and increase rpm to 4000.

Sometimes aftermarket halogen bulbs will raise the amp draw past normal charging capabilities.