First Time Cutting Outside Threads
- steell
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Why used motor oil? Just curious.
Not a good idea, it's still to slippery to use for cutting.
I tried that on my lathe one time, discovered real fast that it didn't work :laugh:
Unsalted lard works real well though, and if you get it hot it smells like frying bacon
Sulferized cutting oil is readily available, it's used for threading pipe. But it really stinks!
KD9JUR
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- Old Man Rock
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Crisco lard (white cooking crap in a can) works wonders...
We use it all the time for tapping threaded fine thread metric holes in SS plates at work... Truly works well...
Don;t ask me why...
I';m sure Otto the mad chemist can explain.... :laugh:
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- DoubleDub
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I'll drop out some pics once I get a little more progress. It feels good to actually try to make something to fix my bike for once rather than just swapping out parts.
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- testarossa
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- Attack life, it's only trying to kill you.
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Why used motor oil? Just curious.
I think that the theory is it contains some amount of sulphur, and it needs to be used so that the viscosity is broken down.
I would only use the motor oil in a pinch. I agree that the dark sulphur oil is best.
Honestly, though, the differences are mostly in the quality of the finished thread. Your primary concern is getting the thread actually cut in the first place. Don't worry too much about the finish at this point.
1978 KZ1000 A2 Click--->Build Thread
2004 ZX-10R
2007 Harley Sportster 1200
2020 Harley Street Glide Special
Angola, IN
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- Kidkawie
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- I bleed premix
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1975 Z1 900
1994 KX250 Supermoto
2004 KX125
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- DoubleDub
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I looked at the packaging (definitely a cheap die set) but it doesn't say Carbon, just "Heavy Duty Alloy Steel". Maybe it's even cheaper than Carbon steel? :dry: :huh:
Anyways, since it was cheap and I only have a few threads to cut I don't care as long as I get the thing done.
Thanks for the help!
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- Link14
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- DoubleDub
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So I finished the rod this afternoon - not sure that I'm the best at cutting threads, but the nuts threaded like they should. Got the rod installed and it appears to work but still needs a bit of adjustment.
I threaded the back side quite a bit to allow for two nuts pressed against each other with a lock nut to act as the spring stop (probably extreme overkill).
The rod was 36" of 6mm stainless from McMaster Carr. Less that $13 shipped from Chicago to me and delivered Monday afternoon (ordered Saturday morning) by UPS.
Spent another $5 or so on hardware, sure can't be a $17 brake rod considering the stainless replica is over $40.
Here's pics of it being made:
Pics of the rod installed:
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- Patton
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- KZr Legend
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...
Instead of the extended threading, could the brake arm lever be repositioned on its shaft?
If not already done, may be time to inspect rear brake shoes.
Good Fortune!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- DoubleDub
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Instead of the extended threading, could the brake arm lever be repositioned on its shaft?
If not already done, may be time to inspect rear brake shoes.
Good Fortune!
Agreed - that is part of the adjustment required.
The extended threading is actually on the other side of the brake lever to allow for the spring stop (can be seen on the right next to the exhaust). Once properly adjusted there shouldn't be as much threading exiting the rear of the brake lever.
I also need to verify the brake shoes as I have also been warned about the original shoes having glue that fails over time, and I'm not certain of the age of these shoes.
Thanks for the input!
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- Kidkawie
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- I bleed premix
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1975 Z1 900
1994 KX250 Supermoto
2004 KX125
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- DoubleDub
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