Timing chain and high dollar tools

I got bored, so I thought I would post some stuff an old guy uses, and some basic stuff for new guys that probably been covered 100 times. There a good picture of 122 link chain setup in time and ready to go. Put crank shaft on 1-4 T mark. I put the cams through the chain pull the chain tight, mark the link that lines up with the valve cover surface and align the> mark on exhaust cam gear count 28 starting on next link above the> mark make a mark then align the intake cam gear 28 mark.  Now, I don’t use 90w in my motorcycles. But if you clean out one of those bottles and put your favorite oil(not going down that rabbit hole) in it you can use it for many things. I use it in oil galley to prime new engine, check if oil is going up to the cams after a top rebuild, push old oil out and new oil in a old bike before starting. I sell that tool for $90 free shipping! Next is chain grabber made from coat hanger. I don’t tie the chain up on top end jobs it just gets in the way. I just let it hang out at the bottom till I need it and just grab it with the coat hanger..  Now the controversy about cam chains and continuous only or can a split chain be as good. I haven’t  seen one come apart yet if done right! I use the D.I.D chain and rivet link. When I rivet it I use two modified pins in my tool. First one is the larger pin that kinda centers everything and opens it up. Then I use the smaller pin to go in and make it tight! I put a .010 “ feeler gauge between the links on the back side so as not get it too tight.. They just tell you to round the small pin on you chain breaker, so I thought I would show how my are. And just something I have noticed, the 124 link chains are more available and cheaper. So if your going break it anyways, just pull a whole link.. well if this is useless I am sure someone will get rid of it. But it gave me something to do. Thanks

Im going to change the camchain when spring arrive and this was a very useful post thanks. It looks like the masterlink on the 219 chain has a dent in the middle of the pins ?.
I had a look at my cheap chainbreaker /riveter tool and found out that it does not have a anvil riveter so the peen will look  like factory . Last time i riveted a camchain  (a silent chain ) i used the tool.Now i had a look at the tool and I thaugh it  had the anvil that peen the pins down on the sides like from factory,but it does not . just had a look on some pictures from the job i did back in 2018 and to my sureprice i have not used a anvil that peens the sides on the pins .I must have used the ball end riveter.

There are two different types of rivets! One that I call the Honda style(hope I can use that word here) that have holes in the end. Then there is the solid press on and stake type. I like the one with holes because you don’t have to fiddle with trying to get it pressed on and drop the peanut 20 times and at my age the fingers don’t work like they use to.. B ack in the day(don’t try this at home) we would just press out the pin string the chain and press the pin back in and restate.

11,000 miles on the master link (solid rivet) Morse silent cam chain installed last year: