KZ400 Valve and Timing Procedure

This is pretty academic, but I can't find specifics on this topic - when doing the valve adjustment and ignition timing, do you do the valves first and then the ignition, or does it matter all that much? 

When I first did this while bringing this bike back to life, I checked/did the timing first and then the valves; besides needing a little valve adjustment, they were both right on the money, except for a bit of tightness on the left cylinder tappets, which I of course adjusted.  The bike started first kick, which was great, and then reliably started with every kick after that, but then in the course of checking the clutch pack I of course had to take off the timing plate, check the clutch plates (they were not stuck) and then put it all back together and re-time it and check the valves again. After that, I did get the bike to start after about 10 kicks, but I think something's off and it may be how I did the valves and timing adjustment after I took it apart - timing first and then the valves.

The official Kawasaki manual and other places online I have checked are rather vague about which procedure should be done first, only saying that the engine must be cold to do the valve adjustment.  Does it matter which procedure you do first?

As one doesn't influence the other it's entirely up to you the order you decide to do it in

Okay, good to know - but more so to the finer points, what determines the reliability of the kick start? Valve lash? Timing? Or Both?  I'm timing this bike with a light, so as the points just begin to open, the light goes out and that's where I set the screws on the points. Valves are set at 0.10mm.  

Dr. Frankenstein wrote:

Okay, good to know - but more so to the finer points, what determines the reliability of the kick start? Valve lash? Timing? Or Both?  Given that lash effects compression and timing "does what it says on the tin" both are equally important to good starting
I'm timing this bike with a light, so as the points just begin to open, the light goes out and that's where I set the screws on the points. Valves are set at 0.10mm.  That works as long as the crank is in the correct position