Intake valves

wrote:

Those readings aren’t bad. Not great, not terrible.
Heres a good step by step procedure for that adjustment.
www.riderforums.com/threads/zr-7s-valve-...t-with-pics-1.52880/



I noticed that the cam chain had a little slack in it today, can I tighten it up at the tensioner?
 

wrote:

wrote:

Those readings aren’t bad. Not great, not terrible.
Heres a good step by step procedure for that adjustment.
www.riderforums.com/threads/zr-7s-valve-...t-with-pics-1.52880/



I noticed that the cam chain had a little slack in it today, can I tighten it up at the tensioner?


 

Slack in the cam chain between the cams is normal.  A bigger concern is to make sure you remove the tensioner spring and pull back the wedge in the tensioner before you install the valve cover.  Reason being, there is a rub block in the cover which pressed down, and if you install the cover without releasing tension on the chain, it will get over tensioned.

Oh, and if you measured the valve clearances by positioning the cams so the lobe is pointing away from the bucket, then your measured clearances are incorrect; they will read about .0015" loser than reality, so compensate accordingly.  Reason being, when positioning the cams this way, there will be an adjacent cam lobe depressing the valves on that cylinder, which pushes the cam up, away from the spring, thus skewing the cam in the journal clearance, and falsely tricking you into believing there is more clearance than there really is.  

wrote:

Oh, and if you measured the valve clearances by positioning the cams so the lobe is pointing away from the bucket, then your measured clearances are incorrect; they will read about .0015" loser than reality, so compensate accordingly.  Reason being, when positioning the cams this way, there will be an adjacent cam lobe depressing the valves on that cylinder, which pushes the cam up, away from the spring, thus skewing the cam in the journal clearance, and falsely tricking you into believing there is more clearance than there really is.  

Thanks for that. I always wondered why you shouldn’t aim the lobe directly away from the bucket/shim.
I always use factory recommendations but now I know.

wrote:

 

Thanks for that. I always wondered why you shouldn’t aim the lobe directly away from the bucket/shim.
I always use factory recommendations but now I know.

If you want the BEST cam positioning method for adjusting the valves, look up the later year KZ1000 method.  This method, which coincidentally is identical to the Suzuki GS method, has the cams positioned so two adjacent valves are both on the base circle at the same time, thus the valves are adjusted two at a time.  This method is dead easy to remember and execute, too.  

Rotate engine until #4 exhaust cam lobe is pointing forward, at the gasket surface, then measure #4E and #3E clearance.
Rotate engine until #1 exhaust cam lobe is pointing forward, at the gasket surface, then measure  #1E & #2E clearance.

Rotate engine until #1 INTAKE cam lobe is point upward, 90 degrees to the gasket surface, then measure #1I & #2I clearance
Rotate....................#4 INTAKE cam.................................................................................................................#4 & #3I clearance

It couldn't be easier.  No messing around looking at the 1T or 4T marks on the crank indicator.  Just look at the cams and go...

My ZRX1200 manual has me measuring two cylinders (4 valves per) at a time as well and they may be intake and exhaust together.
I really like your method because jumping around looking at the timing marks is a pain.
And after decades I finally bought a 'metric' feeler gauge set. Instant life improvement right there.

wrote:

wrote:

wrote:

Those readings aren’t bad. Not great, not terrible.
Heres a good step by step procedure for that adjustment.
www.riderforums.com/threads/zr-7s-valve-...t-with-pics-1.52880/



I noticed that the cam chain had a little slack in it today, can I tighten it up at the tensioner?



 

Slack in the cam chain between the cams is normal.  A bigger concern is to make sure you remove the tensioner spring and pull back the wedge in the tensioner before you install the valve cover.  Reason being, there is a rub block in the cover which pressed down, and if you install the cover without releasing tension on the chain, it will get over tensioned.

Oh, and if you measured the valve clearances by positioning the cams so the lobe is pointing away from the bucket, then your measured clearances are incorrect; they will read about .0015" loser than reality, so compensate accordingly.  Reason being, when positioning the cams this way, there will be an adjacent cam lobe depressing the valves on that cylinder, which pushes the cam up, away from the spring, thus skewing the cam in the journal clearance, and falsely tricking you into believing there is more clearance than there really is.  



So the tensioner, do I take it all the way out? Or just look loosen it? 

And when I check the clearances, the lobe as in the wider end needs to be facing forward?
 

 

 

So the tensioner, do I take it all the way out? Or just look loosen it? 

If it’s like mine you have to remove the tensioner completely then reset it on the bench with a special tool. The dimensions are spelled out in the manual. I cut mine by eye using thin aluminum and a pair of tin snips.
You then reinstall with the tool inserted in the tensioner. Once bolted in you remove the tool then the tensioner releases and tensions the chain.
I believe it’s spelled out in that link I provided.

So sorry. I provided a link that is not of much help to you.
Here is a better one and hope it pertains to your situation. (If I can even load it).

www.dropbox.com/s/6s9i68ts2sfl03j/ZR7_Valve-Shim-Checks.docx
 

wrote:

So sorry. I provided a link that is not of much help to you.
Here is a better one and hope it pertains to your situation. (If I can even load it).

www.dropbox.com/s/6s9i68ts2sfl03j/ZR7_Valve-Shim-Checks.docx



Awesome, I really appreciate that! I have to get the gaskets and shims and stuff before I go any further because id get mad if I got it all done and then not be able to ride 
 

Don't remove the tensioner.  Use a 17mm socket with an extension and remove the hex cap, then remove the spring, and pull back the wedge.  It only takes about 30 seconds to do everything.  

wrote:

Don't remove the tensioner.  Use a 17mm socket with an extension and remove the hex cap, then remove the spring, and pull back the wedge.  It only takes about 30 seconds to do everything.  



Awesome!! Thank you so much Nessism!! I have been so confused about the tensioner lol I haven't removed it at all but I did loose the big 17mm cap and stopped because I felt the spring and I was paranoid about messing something up. I've been researching the spring tensioner all day and I have not found anything about what to do lol I really appreciate it bud
 

My cam chain tensioner is different than yours I believe, so never mind. Yours look like the same as what’s on the 1000.
The zip-tying of the sprockets may apply however. I followed those instructions as I was fretting about having to remove the cams as this was my first shim under bucket valve adjustment I had ever done. (I’ve done finger followers and 1000j where the shims were right there and nut adjusters). But it really turned out to be no big thing. Just be organized.