Broken Spark Plugs Remedy?

Well, it happened Again; I was hoping it wouldn't but it did. This bike has been outside for a looong time, and when I went to take out the spark plugs what I thought was a turning turned into a Crunch..! 

Yes, BOTH spark plugs turned all right; that little silver ring is what remains of the spark plug threads; on both sides! If you look closely you can see the remains of the spark plug tip in the cylinder.  It appears I have some work ahead of me.  Any ideas for getting those out?  I had soaked them in PB Blaster for a week and tried to use heat before I attempted to turn them, but they broke faster than Betty White's hip. It didn't take much.
Because of this I've back-burnered the KZ400 project until I can drop the engine and take it all apart, but I'm hoping somebody here has a solution...? 

I'd try a fluted screw extractor; I struggled with a broken plug like this in a variety of other ways and none of them went anywhere - least of all a spiral-type extractor. If that doesn't work, I'd pull the head, I think that's the path of least risk of damage. 

 

Actually, I came upon this - a pipe nipple extractor from Lowes, $11 - Harbor Freight has one too, but this one seems a bit better:
Kobalt Pipe Nipple Extractor Set in the Plumbing Wrenches & Specialty Tools department at Lowes.com

I will of course report back when it happens.

 

Check out Autozone's free loaner tool for a Ford Triton spark plug extractor.
It may work, but double check the clearances as the spark plug is a different size externally.
Ford trucks had a fun time breaking spark plugs so there was a tool created.

www.autozone.com/nuts-bolts-and-washers/...mover-set/409619_0_0

 

of course i'd check the work done before install, but there's a refurbished replacement head (p/n 11002-1003) on ebay at the moment for $99/shipped.    
i also have a spare head for a 79, in nice shape and less expensive.   

Ha, yeah. that was a PITA. Most F150's over here spat the plugs out all by themselves, no tool required! 

I've always used anti-sieze on mine and they've always came out like butter.

Some don't some do from what I've read on here but this is one thing I probably won't be talk out of.

wrote:

I've always used anti-sieze on mine and they've always came out like butter.

Some don't some do from what I've read on here but this is one thing I probably won't be talk out of.

+1

We've used Bostik Never-Seeze Standard Grade on plug and other threads for decades.  Almost always on steel fasteners threading into aluminum.  Just have to be very careful not to over-torque, as can easily be done on lubed threads.

Good Ridin'
​​​​​​​slmjim & Z1BEBE

Applying heat may help with the extraction. A magnet should get the tip out of the cylinder then suction out the porcelain.

Update - I tried the pipe nipple removers, but no luck there; after doing some more reading I've ordered some square fluted screw extractors to see if that makes a difference. What really bugs me though is I managed to break off two cooling fins with the breaker bar!  

Noman, PM me about the head please; thanks!

Drill out most of it! 
EDM burn it out!
Research EDM ( electrical discharge machining)
Any and all of those e z out extractors are just going to push outward against the thread, binding it more.
Drill it out. put an insert back in!
I had a plug broke off in a 79-80 smog KZ1000 head. It sat for 20 years! it was not going anywhere! I drilled down to the minimum, the just chisled the thin metal out that was left. Got lucky to just run a nice sharp 14mm tap through. Not a plug chaser. It looks ugly, but with 3/4" of threads! A new plug will work fine.
At least I hope so when I sell the 12,000 mile head, all fresh and rebuilt on eBay! 
This was one of my KZE1-E2 shafty's I bought to part out. Virgin low mile MarkII case and crank sold for $500 to the drag racers. I paid $200 for this whole bike!
The seller was the one who chisled up the opening. How do you spell (chisled??) 

Did you try heat?