So.......I Bought A Turd And I Blame You Guys

Definitely a solid bike to start out with. much better already. I see a few hacks on the harness, if you plan to replace it I’m a buyer for the old one. 

 

Late to the party but it absolutely can be done. Here is a fossilized Viking turd from the ninth century which measures eight inches by two.
Pretty shiny for what it is.
 

wrote:

Late to the party but it absolutely can be done. Here is a fossilized Viking turd from the ninth century which measures eight inches by two.
Pretty shiny for what it is.
 

Delivering that must have been like "giving birth" 

Looks like I may need a few more gallons of Turd polish....

The PO must have used axle grease to lube the chain, or the output shaft seal has been leaking for 20+ years = automatic chain oiler.

This should get ya started!

 

New fender

Yep, as Wheelhop said new repop rear fender and a used taillight and mounting bracket from ebay. I told myself I wasn't going to spend money on cosmetics until I got the bike running but I couldn't stand looking at it with no taillight/fender ( gives me a bit of motivation ). I also had to replace the fuse box that someone removed.

I checked the valve lash and all were in spec but one was a bit tight replaced a 270 shim for a 265. I then installed a battery and did a compression check, 150-147-140-150 I think the low one will improve when I get some heat in the engine so good enough for now.

On to the carbs, these have been sitting on my bench for a month as I just walk by them, I started disassembly last night and they look better than I expected for sitting for years and man do they stink what fuel that was still in the bowls looked like dark molasses.

Wrong orientation switch #4 to #2 and 2# to 4#.

Hard to tell in this photo but make sure, in the areas circled, there is no whole going through to the carb inlet throat. If there is a hole then these are gooned up accelerator pump carbs. 

 

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Wrong orientation switch #4 to #2 and 2# to 4#.


 

Good eye Mikaw ! I noticed that when I was removing the bowls, a WTF moment. I'll need to be sure to double check everything now.
The carb bodies aren't drilled for accelerator pump so all good there but thanks for the heads up on that I may have overlooked that tidbit without you mentioning it.........Thanks!

If the engine runs fine once the carbs are sorted out I wouldn’t bother rechecking compression. The numbers you posted are already good. The reason for not checking is that it’ll only serve to bother you if they’re not perfect and to make them perfect requires substantial engine work. Just "assume" they all improved. That’s my method anyways.

Thanks for your input blipco that was my thought also, I was kinda surprised with the numbers and also the fact the valve lash was near perfect.
This bike has been setting for a few years but at least it was kept in a garage. I'm wondering if it's had any internal engine work, I noticed it has a modification to the cam chain tensioner with a bolt and lock nut at the rear of the tensioner, I also removed 125 main jets from the carbs which seem a bit much for a stock 1000 with just a 4 into 1 pipe and pods.

I've thought about taking the carbs off my LTD and putting them on just to fire it up but I think I'll just wait till I get these carbs done.