1973 Z1 Maui

First one I've made and of course I'd improve it if I did another. If I did this a lot I would make it a little taller, put leveling screws in the corners and maybe coat it to make it more fuel resistant. It's on an old cookie sheet to capture any spills but I never really lost more than a few drops of fuel. It's scraps of 3/4" (actually it's thinner these days) plywood with two plugs cut out with my hole saw and coated with silver tape to take up the clearance and provide some resistance to moving around. I used wedges to level the carbs.

I got it running this morning, no video yet, my daughter is working it over so I can upload it. I could not be more pleased, it started right up, just a half second crank and off it went. It sounded like #4 intake valve might have hung up a few times causing some popping but it cleared right up. It idles down very nicely, I adjusted the timing a bit. Only thing seems to be a rich idle. Hard to say why, it has no air cleaner plenum on it and the 4-1 that came on it. Later it will have stock air box and exhaust, I guess I’ll do more tuning then. Jets are stock size 12.5, needles in middle slot. I used my NAPA jump box which reports 14.1 volts so I know the alternator works. The motor sounds great. I think it spent some time running rich because when I blipped it up a lot of soot came out of the pipe. It had 17 jets in it when I got it. 
I’ll get the videos up as soon as my “videographer” team is done.
Next is the tear down to begin eliminating the rust, corrosion, painted alloy parts, rusty fasteners, bad rubber parts, etc. I have high hopes for this project, it should be a pretty nice bike when it’s done.

A possible cause of the rich mixture is the choke circuit.  There are seals underneath the choke plungers that may be leaking a bit.  zed1015 has a rebuild for those.

Thank you, I sent a message

Worked on cleaning up the brake panel, removed bearings and the swing arm, bushings were scored up. I’m going to put the new bushings in before blast and paint, I’ll seal the ends up.More NOS parts today.I’m thinking about rechroming the shifter, brake pedal and brake rod and the bracket.

As I head down this long road I am seeing that some items are difficult to source partly due to COVID-19. I just looked for vintage style tires and Revzilla is out of stock.
anyone have any tire types and source suggestions?
im looking for the correct looking tires.
thank you
steve

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationYes, Covid is causing supply problems.  Looks like Z Power has them.   www.z-power.co.uk/tyres-dunlop-f11k87-pair

The correct rear tire is a Dunlop K87 Gold Seal.  The correct front tire is a Dunlop F6.  But it's no longer made so most people go with an F11.

Here is one on ebay.  

Same guy has an F11.  

You will have to confirm size before buying.



 

Today I continued to remove stuff in preparation to remove the motor. I’ll be checking the valve timing prior to really getting into it. Along the way I’ve come to the conclusion that the previous work was done with no attention paid to fasteners. I’ve even found some SAE stuff on it! I’ll need to get lots of stuff to put it back together. The oil looked ok when I drained it except the oil filter cover drain plug cavity had been mangled at some point, I’m surprised it didn’t leak. Johnny’s Vintage has one on the way. My gauges are going to be mailed to CB750 Faces shortly for refurbishment

The front tire looks like a Dunlop F11, which is what most people use nowadays.  The frame looks to be re-painted.  The headstock sticker may be a reproduction.  The engine was repainted and the PO did not shave the paint off the cylinder and head on the ends of them.  It looks like the head nuts have been replaced.  Early Z1's used shorter ones that looked like top hats, with flat surfaces on top of the wide section.  Later Z1's used the same shape but a bit taller.  Hard to tell but I think yours are the style used on Z1A's and B's.  The headlight ears look to be the original seamless type.

When you open the side covers look for date codes on the inside surfaces.  They were ink stamped and should still be visible.

Did you get John Brooke's book yet?  It's sold by Z Power.  

I can only add to HRM keen eye that the oil collar is original Kawasaki option designed for the ‘73 only. They are kinda rare. They only fit bikes before the LH reflector was added. 

I'm going to keep the oil cooler but not put it back on.
Yes, the frame (and a lot of other stuff) were painted by the po, paint everywhere, on fasteners, etc. Lots of paint. Engine paint will be removed and hopefully stock paint job will be recreated. 
Most fasteners will be replaced to get some uniformity since the fasteners I'm finding are a mix and match bunch. I'm going to try to get as stock as I can with some exceptions due to our marine climate here.
I took the valve cover off today and my feelings about needing to look inside were correct. The #2 exhaust valve lobe is scored, I need a new cam. My little pointer catches on the defect. The other lobes look ok I think. 
Have to order John Brookes book still.

Are the cams hollow?