KZ650 almost ready to fire

I showed a couple friends amd they know nothing about bikes so i figured i would post it here. I finished up the HEI ignitor mod last night and got it mounted and installed onto the bike. My first hand at building any sort of electrical anything, so i must say i am pretty proud to show it off.

That looks great!

I do have one question, though. I assume you have the resistor/diodes adapter circuit in that yellow heatshrink?

If so, I don't think I see a power connection to the resistor. Forgive me if I'm wrong, but the two wires at the bottom of the yellow heatshrink appear to be ground, then the top has the two pickup connections. I don't see another wire to provide 12v to the resistor.

Or, if the brown? wire at the bottom is power from the right module somehow, then I dont see a ground wire tying the modules to the adapter.

I have the resistor to the B terminal hidden under the electrical tape and green jumper wire. The yellow/red wire is also hooked the the B terminal then ran upwards. The diodes are in the yellow heatshrink which is two pieces to allow the resistor and diodes to meet. I should have taken build pics but i was so focused on not getting confused haha.

Ah, I see it now. So that resistor somehow connects into that yellow heatshrink.

Yes. It only looks hidden in the picture. However, i put everything back together and as i turned the bike over, i got a loud backfire sound happening after i turned the ignition switch off. (Which leads me to believe spark is apparent as before this mod it did not do that)(it smokes from the exaust as i turn it over which is also new)It did this 3 or 4 times and then the main fuse popped. Complete loss of power to everything. I have been trying to read into why this would happen, to no avail. Im assuming there is now better voltage running through the electronics? I will be getting a pack of fuses so i can verify today. Should i run a 15a fuse in place of the 10a to allow for the slightly better voltage? Or just assume the older fuses may have been on the brink for some time and replacing with original amperage. Mind you the wires and inside the fuse box looks brand new. Zero evidence of age or wear.

Was the headlight on? With the headlight a 10A main fuse might not quite be enough. The factory uses 20A as the main fuse on most KZ's.

You should pull the plugs to see the spark. Keep them connected, but make sure all 4 are in contact with the engine. Then simply turn the ignition switch on and off and see if you get spark. Normally you should not. When at rest, the HEI modules should not charge the coils, so there should be no spark when you turn the ignition switch off.

If there is a spark, that is indicative of having the newer type of 4-pin HEI modules.
I assume you have, but if you haven't already, you should consult this page on HEI modules:
s3.amazonaws.com/gpzweb/Ignition/HeiModules/HeiModules.html
That page will show a way to hopefully identify what family they are.

You need the 1.25v family of 4-pin modules. They are the wells/duralast DR100 type.
Looking at your photo I can't immediately identify the modules. The 1.25v type DR100 has a little round bump in the rectangular area.

Yes. I thought studied well enough, apparently in the fine print of my purchase order i distinctly see the part numbers for the 0v module. Along with a few others. Well it looks like i am back to the drawing board. At least now i have an idea of how it works and i can clean up the wiring a bit.

You can sometimes get new old stock from places like Rock auto for really cheap, like $10 per module. If only they would tell you exactly what brand and model number they were sending. The older modules are almost all the 1.25v or .77v type. Either of those will work for you. If you get the .77v type, you just have to short out one of the diodes.

I will eventually design a circuit to use 7-pin modules, or individual transistors (IGBT's). So far I've only made the ones for points. But the magnetic pickup type will be next.