Saving a '81 KZ750-E

Here is my "I'm not Gazzz" method of cleaning up the starter... :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

21 pictures and several posts didn't survive the transition to the new server. Hopefully they can restore the picture links. I got the cylinder block and pistons installed. Accidentally dropped a cam chain guide damper into the case. I had to pull the oil pan to retrieve it. The whole thing stressed me out more than it was worth - the pan removal wasn't that big of a deal since there isn't any oil in it yet.

I started to check the valve clearances on the bench. I used the thinnest shims I had (the ones that came out of the head) and bolted in the exhaust cam. Every valve was too tight. The smallest feeler gage I have is .0015", and I couldn't get it under any of them. So I went ahead and ordered 8 more shims, the smallest on Partzilla that said they were in stock. The spec is .003" to .007" clearance, so as a starting point I got shims about .005" thinner than what was in there. After ordering, I got an email from Partzilla saying the shims are back ordered with no ETA.

That is why I start out with like some 200 or 205 size shims. That way you can get a pretty good reading on what shim you will need to put you in your clearance range.

K&L Supply used to sell the 13mm shims used in your motor. Plus there are TONS of these shims for sale on Ebay too!!!!!!

Time for you to start your shim collection if you plan on keeping your 750.

Z1 sells shims... www.z1enterprises.com/13mm-valve-shims-sizes.html

I found some 2.05 shims on Ebay, they will be here next week. Since the head was rebuilt, the seats got recut. That will put the valve stem closer to the cam, reducing the shim requirement. Hopefully the shop I used got it right. The FSM says to use the height from the spring seat to the end of the valve to determine a starting point on the shim, but the springs were installed when I got the head back and didn't get any measurements from the rebuilder.

I found an old picture of my best friend and I sitting on our bikes. This is the day I brought home the first new vehicle I had ever purchased - an '83 Suzuki GS750e. My friend is on his '80 KZ750. No, I would never ride wearing flip flops... we were just taking a picture. Man, we had some great rides together! We went to Keith Code's Superbike School at Willow Springs together. Many track days, many more canyon crawls. Good memories!


Back then the Superbike School used GPz 550's...

I got the shims I ordered off Ebay today. I ordered four shims at 205. I used all four on each cam, and checked the clearances. The shop that rebuilt the cylinder head a year or so ago told me when I picked it up that one valve got cut deeper than the others. I found it. The 205 shim on that valve gives a clearance of .004" (.101 mm). The FSM spec is .003" - .007". All the other valves were very consistent, one needing a 215 shim, and the remaining six valves needing 220. Here are the stock shim sizes that came in the head from the factory:

2 @ 245
4 @ 250
1 @ 255
1 @ 260

I have my second shim order already placed. They should arrive the middle of next week. Slowly getting closer to putting the cylinder head back on!

Those shim sizes are pretty thin. The shop that did the valve job should have cut the stems down more. Jay from Ape says that they cut down the valve locks in some cases to make sure the valves are short enough to get the shims up into a decent range. I'm not an expert but I'd like to see at least a 2.40 shim at the lowest since the valves sink with use which means the shim sizes you will need in the future get thinner and have some room to spare.

That makes perfect sense. Something I hadn't considered. I will have to call him and find out if he can pull off grinding down the valve stems. The one will need .017" removed to get around the 250 shim size. Most of the others around .011".

It's important that the keepers sit below the end of the valve stem. That's why Jay said they sometimes grid down the keepers. If shortening the valves results in this issue keep this in mind.

As always, two steps forward, three steps back. But I totally agree with you on getting the shim sizes thicker by shortening the valve stems. Future clearance adjustability is important. Once again I appreciate the heads up!