83 KZ1100ltd Rebuild

More progress today. First thing was to retorque the head nuts, adjust the clutch, and check the plugs. Plugs were a little dark but okay so I cleaned them up and put them back. We'll see how that story plays out while riding.

Got the bike moving under its own power for a few feet down the driveway. Clutch engagement felt good and she shifted into and out of first okay. Front brakes felt a little soft. I'll bleed them some more and see if they firm up.

Then I started loosely mounting the fairing and bags. Everything is in need of a good wash but it's starting to look like something. All that plastic really adds some visual girth units to the old girl.




Hooked up the wiring. The headlight and front running lights worked but no blinkers and nothing at all from the top box. Time for more electrical exploratory surgery!

Yesterday was all about dem electrons. To get my bearings, I spent some time reviewing installation manuals from the Vetter website along with wiring diagrams in the shop manual.

Got all the wires layed out and mated all the connectors got the top box running lights working but still no joy for the turn signals. Time to get the multimeter!

Checked the fuses again, all good there. Verified the rear signal grounds were connected to the battery negative and measured 11.5 volts between the hot wires and battery positive. The turn signals were grounded and getting power but not working.

Turned my attention to the control switches. Maybe I damaged something while replacing the horn switch. Both the turn signal and flasher switch wires were connected and getting voltage. No issues there.

Only thing left I could think of were the relays. Popped both of them off and the connectors were rather corroded. Cleaned things up a bit and got some signs of life. The turn signals would illuminate but not flash. Started to play around with the relay, tapping in on the frame and turning it upside down. That must have broken something loose because I could hear it clicking and the signals were blinking!

Repeated the process for the flasher relay. Got it working but I think it is on its last legs, relay switches very fast. Too fast for the lights to keep up.

So now all the electrical is working! Need to double check everything and ensure fasteners are torqued then I'll take it out for it's maiden voyage.

Are the passenger peg mounts aftermarket, or came with the Vetter kit? I haven't seen that style before.

I think they're stock. The parts diagrams on Partzilla shows the same parts.

Save for a couple panels on the saddle bags and badges, she's all back together.




Took her for a quick spin around the block and heard a terrible whining coming from the front (dash?). It is definitely wheel speed related as

it increases with vehicle speed and doesn't happen when the bike is still.

Maybe the speedo cable? Anyone have something like this happen to them?

The speedo cable must not have been secured in the speedometer. Removed and reinstalled and the noise stopped.

I've got a bigger problem though, runaway RPM. While riding the bike, anytime the RPM got >=2000 the engine would race. Below 2000 and the RPM would settle. Bike idled fine. Issue was not dependent upon handlebar position.

Looked over several posts with the same issue for items to check.

Suspected intake leak but sprayed around the carb holders with starter fluid and no change in RPM. Took the intake boots off, no cracking and still pliable.

All the carb vacuum ports are capped save one for the petcock. Throttle cable is not stuck and has play.

The slides move freely and I can hear the 'whoosh'. Did notice some rough spots on the slides. All facing the airbox.



To experiment, I swapped the slides from an extra set of carbs. No damage but they have an extra hole. Thoughts as to why?



Ran these slides and the engine still raced.

Also checked the advance mechanism. I'd greased it before reinstalling and the arms moved freely and the cam snapped back (springs work).

Will blow the carbs apart today and clean. Would appreciate other suggested areas to inspect.

It sounds like you have vacuum leaks. Spraying stuff on the intake will only find gross leaks, not smaller ones. Also, this carb rebuild tutorial may help in case you didn't go through the carbs completely yet. It's time well spent if you haven't already.
zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_...Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf

A suspect has been identified for the runaway engine. The pilot screw orings are in bad shape.



New ones on order along with carb boots.

With respect to the runaway engine:
My KZ440 used to race and run away just like you describe after I cleaned the carb and retuned the pilot screws. The real problem was actually my idle speed adjustment. On my bike it's just a long screw with a knob. Turns out I adjusted it wrong and had the idle too fast, thus the throttle butterfly valves were open too much, allowing air in, and the CV slides went crazy and caused the engine to race. Closing the throttle via the idle adjustment screw fixed my problem. Of course the pilot screw adjustment and idle speed adjustment work together at idle, so change one and adjust the other.

I finally gave up hope that my Partzilla order would ever ship and ordered orings from Ebay.

The NOS Ebay hardware arrived today, along with strong storms that knocked out the power. Turns out you can rebuild carburetors by candlelight! :blink:

Swapped in the new orings, checked and adjusted the flow heights (since I had them open), and bench synced 'em. Popped the carbs in and took her for a couple turns around the block. No more runaway engine! Huzzah!

Will have to take her for a longer ride tomorrow when the weather clears up. Then just have to decide to keep or sell. I'm having a hard time getting that FTR1200 out of my head and might need to clear some space in the garage!

Looks good. I have vetted bags too, love em. Ppl don’t like them but idgaf Working on some wire issues this lock down also. Horn don’t work, wat to put turn signals back on. Found one of the blue turn signal wires with a jumper on it from ignition power wire. What could that be from
Update
Undid it , tail light went out?! My guess is trying to power the circuit because of a short somewhere. Cleaning up some connections so see what that does

What I thought was fixed was in fact not! The runaway engine is still an issue. Same symptoms.

Replaced the carb mounts, no change.

Recleaned and lubricated the advance mechanism, no change. But I did swap out the ignition plate JIS screw heads with button heads. Those came in handy when I discovered I reassembled the advance backwards and the timing was 180 out! :pinch: Got that corrected.

I'm at my wit's end, don't know what else to check.