Initial parts/tools list for a bike that hasn't run in 20 years (help) :)

OK, the bike in question is a 1976 Kawasaki KZ900. My dad was the original owner. It is now mine. It's been in a garage for more than 20 years collecting dust. It has about 10k miles on it currently. I just found that out today after chatting with my dad. He and I are going to get it back up and running. So ... I need to know what I need to do. I have a Clymer manual coming for it and a Haynes too I believe. Clymer for sure. I know it needs an exhaust and tires. I plan to change the tires myself. Oh, new tubes too. I'm assuming the brake fluid will need to be flushed, oil, gas, etc. New gas lines. Carbs cleaned and synced. I'm sure I'm forgetting something. I haven't touched a motorcycle since I was in high school. I haven't been able to get down to my dad's to take a picture. I've got a picture on my phone I'm going to try to get uploaded here so you guys can see my new baby.

Make sure it'll stop before you make it go:
Master cylinder rebuild kit if it's salvageable. Deep snap ring pliers to get it apart.
Caliper kit(s). Likely salvageable.

Intake boots. Check for cracks on the old ones.

Do the camchain adjustment.

Check the valves & ignition timing.

A good ultrasonic cleaner if you're gonna do the carbs yourself.

Good quality carb kits. Don't cheap out on these.

Install inline fuel filters on each fuel rail.

Check the charging system with a known-good, freshly charged battery.

A good DMM can be valuable for charging systems tests & general troubleshooting.

Good JIS screwdrivers.

An impact screwdriver w/JIS bits.

A good selection of metric sockets & combination wrenches.

At least one click-type torque wrench, 10 - 200 in/lb. Use it when a torque spec is call for. Aluminum threads are delicate. A second torque wrench 10 - 150 ft/lb will be useful for larger fasteners.

More patience, time & money than you think you'll need.


Good Ridin'
slmjim & Z1BEBE

Get a KZ900 factory service manual. I wouldn't trust anything else. Beware, some torque specs are wrong in the Clymer. Not familiar with the Haynes. I tried changing the rear tire / tube myself. It may end up costing more than having someone do it. I ruined the tube in my attempt. You have the rim locks to contend with. Everything slmjim+Z1BEBE said.

Grease the swing arm and I would replace that rusty chain and the sprockets too.

The original maintenance manual is available online for free from many sources. This should be your bible. Do all of the maintenance checks that are mentioned. If it were me I would take photos of every part before removing it from the bike so that I have a reference for putting it back on afterwards. I would also purchase a bunch of baggies and some tape that I could write on and stick on the bag.

Here is one for only $260 :pinch: :blink: :ohmy:

www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-KZ900-Service-Re...Manual/dp/B00BSBVLCQ

One of the first things I assess is what is inside the fuel tank. At the very least it's probably going to need an extensive cleaning out. It's handy to have one of those little auxiliary plastic fuel tanks with a hook on the top so you can hang them somewhere. In my opinion, a must have when you're trying to get carbs dialed in! Expect fuel lines and fuel joints to leak after sitting for that long too...

Rinse, clean and inspect the tank for rust or debris.
Disassemble and clean the carb internals like, carb bowls, needle valves, jets, fuel and air passages.
Take pics of your progress and to confirm a before/after where the parts belong to.
Only use quality tools that fit right to prevent damages on the screws and jets!!!!






Michael

As stated earlier in this thread be sure to use JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdrivers - NOT Phillips; they definitely are different even though the screws look very much alike. Ed