The Ongoing Chapters of the 650B2A.

I'm laughing a little bit as the gap is way off. I'm measuring when the timing mark is at the T.

The gap may or may not be way off, but the gap at at the "T" mark doesn't matter one way or the other.

You set the gap when the points are at their widest point regardless of the "T" or "F" mark position. it's only important that the gap is set when the points are at their widest gap. That gap is what controls the dwell (how long the coils charge).

After that's done properly you set the timing by rotating the points plate until the points just break continuity at the "F" mark. That timing is what controls when the coils will fire. Ed

Gaps are set to .35mm on both. Now moving onto checking continuity.

Continuity set up and timing done hopefully correctly. I found that since I am not replacing the point that 35 was a good base until it came time to do very small ending adjustments to the gap is slightly bigger on both

Cam chain tensioned. Was very loose I'd imagine. Started alright once. After that it is suffering from run away idle. It will start and the rpm will shoot up to 4 or 5k then the engine will die. What could this be caused by? I set up the points and timing to the Instructions provided by Ed. Retensioned can chain via the automatic method on the bike also by the instructions provided. Checked consenders for issues. Both fine. Have carb gauges hooked up. They are a bit out of wack but nothing nearly as bad as before rebuild. I just need the bike to idle a little so then it can warm up and I can manage to work on it. If anyone would like to hear it attempt to run or has any advice on what could be the problem. I can upload a video of me running it.

I assume you have the choke on when you start the bike; that is normal for a cold start. However, once the bike starts if the choke is left on the engine will race until you turn the choke down some; just gradually reduce the choke and see if the rpms drop. Once the engine is warmed up you should shut the choke off. Ed

Yes. I do use the choke to cold start it. But. The moment it fires the engine goes directly to 5K. Then will stay there for a second or two. Drop a little and stay high then attempt to die, moving the choke down will result in the bike to die immediately. Use of the throttle will cause the bike to die immediately even after the engine is warm.I took the coils off the bike and got them tested, they tested fine. Spark checked all Wires and they tested fine. Could a bad battery cause this type of inconsistency? Just got it to Run with vac gauges. Minor differences in pressure although these cheap gauges pulse rather bad so its a very general reading.

After more fiddling I have come to the conclusion that earlier the bike was not getting enough electricity.. In fact it sounded much stronger after cleaning the contacts on the coils and letting the battery charge for a bit. I started the bike with it still plugged in and in fact found a vacuum leak or at least what I think may be a vacuum leak. With the seat open and battery charger plugged in, is started the bike and it did exactly what it did before with me using the choke. But this time as it decelerated when I fiddled with the choke to bring it down from 4k it backfired. And when it did backfire I saw white smoke shoot out of the left hand side near the intake. So even though I have tested this so many times now and never had a vac leak now I figure there is one.


Will post a followup after I try to do a little homemade fix to the rubber. If this does not work I may order new boots.

Have you done any carb cleaning.... pilot passages and jets with spray and high pressure air.... sounds like things could be gummed up don't you think guys ?

If you saw a puff from the joint where the boots meet the cylinder head you need new boots. Trying to fix them with sealant is only temporary at best.

My bike will run like absolute crap (or not run at all) when the battery is bad. The charging system on your bike is different than mine, but I wouldn't be surprised if your bike had similar issues when the battery needs to be replaced. Whatever you do DON'T try to start or run the bike with it hooked up to a battery charger or a running vehicle. That can damage the bike's electrical system. Ed

Extensive carb cleaning. Leak found. Not at boot. Rather at the vacuum petcock. I was using too large of a tube and it keeps shooting off. Switching to smaller tube size.

Edit:I have set a small layer of rubber cement around boots near intake. I will see if this temporarily fixes it. Because if I can narrow this problem down to those boots then I'll be a happy camper to say the least.

Edit Part 2: Fixed small pipe for the vac petcock. No longer puffs out of there. I think that may have been the smoke I saw. I'm very stumped now.

An update. Now the idle changes every time I start it up. This was from cold start. I attempted to replicate this and it attempted to idle at 4k.. Going to remove everything in the fuel system and work my way from the engine backwards.