1980 KZ440 project build...err... rebuild...

So, I put my coil back in, and wired it properly as per the manufacturer (yellow +, black -) and, well, I am blowing my main fuse as soon as I turn the key. I took my multimeter, and checked where the 20 Amp fuse goes, and I put it on 2000, just to see where I was sitting. it maxes out at 1. I am not sure what that means, or why I am now blowing my main fuse when before I was not...

.....and I put it on 2000, just to see where I was sitting.
What does that mean, sorry to ask but some phrases are unknown for me.
Never put greater fuses in or shortcut fuses, your weiring harness isolation will burn and destroy other electrical parts!!!

On my multimeter, I set it to DC amps to 2000 because I knew that it was blowing a 20 amp fuse...

I am kind of confused though, as to why I am now blowing the main fuse when I wasn't before... looks like more wire hunting (I just bought another wiring harness from a running bike, which should be easy to check the whole thing, then wire up plug/plug as to not miss or mix anything. I am also converting to a blade style fuse box when it comes in. I am still searching for the issues with this bike though...

do a quick shortcut test.

some multimeter has a beep test position for continuity check wires.
Disconnect the battery!!!! Connect multimeter to the battery + and - connectors.
If it beeps you have a shortcut.
Disconnect the bullet connectors in your weiring harness till the beep stops.
in this circuit you have a shortcut to searching for.

i forgot, try key and kill switch in on/off position where the fuse blow.

Michael

Thank you. I never throught of that. I found what was blowing the issue. One of the wires to the new coil (the positive) was blowing. Ended up heating enough to smoke the wire, so I am replacing that wire, and guessing I will switch the wires, which doesn't seem right, but I am not saying I wired it right in the first place.

from the wiring diagram, I had the positive connected to the yellow and red wire, and the negative to the blue wire going to the right side of the transmission...

So I put a new wire in, and swapped the wires. It is turning over again. Still no spark. May have to replace the point plate, but not that far yet.

I checked for any short by using the method Scirocco mentioned, and apparently there aren't any. I did this after I saw one spot by the tail light that looks like it could be grounding out. I proceeded to look into the headlight bucket... and that was a mess. Connectors not connected, weird splice things where they aren't connected to anything, but used as random connections. Also notice some connectors that aren't insulated at all, but instead were sitting on each other. I took the headlight bucket off, and was trying to follow wires and, well, yeah, enough said. The wires to the rpm guage seem to be the only ones that are not a direct and easy white wire block connecter. instead it is all spliced in. The first picture, with the connector not connected to anything, appears to have something to do with the turn signal relay? because, via the wiring diagram, that is the only thing I see with an orange and a brown wire.

The second picture is a wire connector not connected to anything with a blue wire spliced with a brown and white wire...

The third picture is of a wire connecter with 2 brown wires on one side, and not connected to anything.

The fourth picture is the 2 bare connections, seemingly piggy backing black with yellow wires. These go to the turn signals and the main wiring harness...

The fifth picture is of a grey wire that is spliced in with itself on one end, and nothing on the other end.

The sixth is the same, just with a green wire...

and the seventh is the same connection as the second, and apparently I took 2 pictures..

I labeled the connecters before separating them to remove the headlight housing... I feel like someone has played up there a few times...

The 2-pole connector with the brown and orange wires go to a turn signal warning buzzer. You can either find one and hook it back up or leave it as is, not connected. I would recommend not connecting it - it is annoying.

The blue wires provide back lighting to gauges and I believe maybe running lights, don't quote me on the last part but there may also be an extra/loose connector in the factory harness for upgrades. You can leave it like it is as long as the insulator on it is in good shape.

Brown wires are switched positive. Along with other things they connect to gauges for some of the warning light indicators. If you are not connecting them to anything then they are fine as they are as long as that insulator is okay and not grounding out.

Black/yellow wires are ground and they connect to a lot of things, turn indicators, guages/warning lights, etc. There may be a spare ground connector or two not connected to anything.

Green and gray wires are for left and right turn signals - one is left and the other is right. I don't remember which is which off the top of my head. They connect to the turn signals and then also connect to the wiring harness for the gauges for the turn signal warning light.

Any of those things can remain disconnected as long as the insulators are okay and they are not grounding out. It might be a good idea to give each unused connector a couple of twists of electrical tape. Check for bare wires and wires that have lost some insulation.

will do the taping and grounding since the turn signals all work as is. Still trying to find my no spark issue. I ordered a new condenser to put in, and sanded my points just to make sure... I have a wiring harness off another bike, along with a stator from a running bike. I am just kind of lost on the spark issue. I am pretty sure I have replaced everything (except for that condenser) that could be the problem...

These bikes didn't have any other safety controls other then the kill switch on the right handlebar, right? I mean, it only turns over when in run, and I have no spark. I know I am getting power to the coil because I reversed the wires, and might have burnt a wire that way, nut I have power running to the coil, and this is a new coil in it...

Ok, so today I swapped stators, put in a new condenser, tested continuity between ground and the condenser, continuity between the points and the coil... still no spark. I ordered new points to put in, but I think that after that, I am going to have to have someone else look at it.

Can a bad regulator rectifier cause no spark? I thought these were just for charging...

On the 2 stators I have, the one that was in there was showing an ohm reading bouncing all around, 262...1986... infinity. The other one was showing close to zero... like .2 on the 20 ohm setting.

So as of right now I put everything back together (on the transmission side cover and new chain, etc.) It was suggested to me to take the cover off where the stator is and make sure the rotor is turning, as if that is not working, no spark. However, I am going to test the kill switch to make sure it is all good.

So, I became kind of curious with people saying that you should be able to attach either wire to either post on the coil. I went to test the different post (while everything was hooked up) and noticed that the positive wire showed what the battery was showing both when off, and when cranking, however, the side connected to the points didn't change at all, which you would expect to see a change if the points were working alongside the condenser, right? My assumption is that the points are bad (which are on the way, just not arrived).

Does this line of thinking make sense, that when using your mulitmeter, you should see a change in voltage? I was only showing .02V... but I may need to retest. Voltage from that points side is negative (condenser charges off ground), so testing on the ground wouldn't be an effective test... I'll retest, and try again. I am running out of places to look and check.

I took the kill switch apart and tested it, and if is fully functional, although, when tracing the wires to the fuse, I did notice and issue with the main fuse. it looks good, but there was no continuity, and turns out the fuse was broken behind the metal, glass tube disconnected, and the filament wasn't making a connection. I replaced the fuse.

So, considering the points is the only part of the ignition system left to replace, and wires all have continuity, and it is turning over without spark, could that/should that be where my issue lies? Is there really anywhere else it could be?

My feeler gauge came in today...the book says gap should be .035... the gap was way smaller, like .015. I don't know if that could have helped, because my battery is currently charging (wife unplugged the charger days ago, and I did not know it while trying different things and cranking.) Anyhow charging to see if everything including that works.

Another question... I checked for ground at my fuses, and have continuity from ground on all three fuses... is this normal, or is this proof that I am grounding out somewhere?