My 1990 KZP build

Markovich wrote: ...It ran so strong that at 70 mph I rolled on the throttle and at around 4500 rpm it broke the clutch loose in 5th gear. Looks like I'll need to look into that as well. No slippage in other gears but I figure the engine is putting out some torque.

If not already done, would perform the clutch push-rod adjustment.

Clutch push rod adjustment -- Need and Purpose
[This is a 1 minute job from start to finish, maybe 2 minutes the first time.]

The FSM covering Z1 and KZ900 includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch push rod adjustment at 2000 mile (3000 km) intervals and explains the need therefor in separate text, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:

Besides cable stretch, clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment, with a decrease in push rod play. Due to this wear, the push rod gradually moves closer to the clutch release lever (at the lower end of the clutch cable) until it touches the adjusting screw. When the rod is touching the screw and therefore has no play, the clutch will not engage fully and clutch slippage will occur. Note that the clutch push rod does not necessarly have play just because the clutch hand lever has play, and so hand lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.


The FSM covering '77-'79 KZ1000's includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch adjustment at 5000 km intervals, and explains the need therefor in slightly different language, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:

Clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment. This wear causes the play between the push rod and the adjusting screw to gradually diminish until the push rod touches the adjusting screw. When this play is lost, the clutch will not engage fully, causing the clutch to slip.
NOTE: Even though the proper amount of play exists at the clutch lever, clutch lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.

---

end of excerpt

---

While the clutch may indeed be worn out with plates needing replacement, it isn't uncommon to overlook or be unaware of the clutch push rod adjustment feature, especially without a manual. It is worrisome to see anyone of unknown experience, without a manual or failing to consult a manual, proceed with clutch disassembly and plate replacement, without first being aware of and considering the clutch push rod adjustment.

Where both (1) clutch cable slack adjustment is perfect, and (2) clutch push rod adjustment is perfect, and the clutch still slips, suspicion is certainly toward the plates being worn and needing replacement. But other things can also cause slippage, even with proper adjustments and good plates, such as glazed plates or improper oil being used in the crankcase.

Good Fortune!

Patton, thank you! I hadn't even considered that. I will take your advice and check that adjustment. This is why I'm convinced that without you here on KZR my bike wouldn't run. keith

very nice integration into civilian duty.

one of the better done kz police conversions i have seen.

thanks for posting,

leon

Here's a more legible version of the procedure for clutch push-rod adjustment --

Clutch push rod adjustment is a routine maintenance item explained in the service manual.

Assure having some "slop" in the clutch cable, using adjustments at the handlebar lever perch and at mid-cable along left frame down tube near the exhaust header.

Removing the access plate should reveal the adjustment screw and locknut.

First, slightly loosen the locknut.

The hidden end of the screw interfaces with the push rod.

The basic idea is to lightly seat the screw against the push rod, then back the screw 1/4 turn away from the push rod, to thereby provide a small gap between end of screw and push rod.

Here's a possible snag ---
The screw is part of an actuator assembly.
On some designs (screw-type), the screw turns clockwise to seat before turning counter-clockwise to provide the gap.
On other designs (ball and ramp), the screw turns counter-clockwise to seat before turning clockwise to provide the gap.

If the attempted adjustment fails when turning the screw clockwise to seat before turning counter-clockwise to provide the gap, try again by turning the screw counter-clockwise to seat before turning clockwise to provide the gap.

Remember to snug the locknut before finishing. Just snug is plenty tight enough.

Lastly, reduce "slop" in the cable to produce desired amount of free play in the lever at the perch.

Good Fortune!

Good Fortune!

Patton, I checked the clutch adjustment and it was indeed tight. Good call there! I will be taking it out here shortly to see if it is improved. I do know that it goes better into neutral from first gear when running. I didn't expect that until your post. Will let you know the results after the ride. Thanks for the advice. Keith

Well I promised a result on my ride. WOW! was that ever a fun ride. Patton the clutch adjustment did the trick. Thanks for that insight. It pulls great and I am astounded at how fast it is. I did have a GS 1000 Suzuki years ago but don't remember it being nearly as fast. Ran straight and true at high speeds on the highway with no bobbles. I'm sure that I will just have to eventually go into the head/cylinder at some point but will wait it out as it is everything I was hoping it would be. I have pestered you guys many times as I worked on this and you have been instrumental with your advice. Can't thank you enough! For now, I'm in the wind. I'll keep you posted.....Keith

Great job on bike. you are bringing back major memories of my 1994 Kawasaki KZ1000P. I've taken off all the cop stuff on the bike and, now it looks more like a KZ1000. Wiring was quite the project but well worth the hard work and countless hours put into rewiring!

I've finally got it running. Will ride it for a while then, do some more mods then, paint the bike. click on my signature to see before pics and after. Best of luck with your bike. Happy, safe riding!

So, fast forward to now, I decided to take the bike apart. It was smoking on start-up and knocking a bit so I tore it down to parade rest. Engine out and down to frame. Powder coated the frame, swing arm and battery box. Changed out to chrome front fender. Rebuilt the engine. New rings, hone ecg. New seals in the head and lapped the valves. Engine is back in and tank is drying. Working on the wiring now. Still need a seat. I think I'm going to go with custom build on it. Some pics for you.