650 Mod's 78 Fighter Build

really nice.

you gotta be stoked :evil: .

nice job capturing the stem.

you can't use one of these stands tho now .



keep us posted on the progress.

leon

Leon,

I sure am! I was nervous about the wheel spacers not working out because I wasn't 100% sure if the forks were off an X1 lightning- but they are, and everything on the front end is snug and looking awesome!

And how does that stand even work? Looks like it just rests on the bottom triple?

Devin

it has a stud that fits into the hole that is in the bottom of most steering stems.
that way you can use the stand to remove the front wheel.
used mainly for racers.

no biggie,i was just playin around :silly: .

leon

Ah, got ya! I know you were just playin' I probably wouldn't use a stand anywho. If I did, I'd probably custom fab a pretty one

Devin

I'll be getting my exhaust back on soon, and tuning up my carbs. Did a bench synch on the slides, and I'll bench synch the float levels soon.

When I do get the carbs on, do you guys think that tuning the pilot circuit with a Gunson Colourtune unit will be enough? Or should I also vacuum set them once I have the carbs in roughly the right burn range?

Thanks,

Devin

650mod wrote: ... Did a bench synch on the slides, and I'll bench synch the float levels soon....

bench synch the float levels -- am trusting that this means assuring the fuel levels are within specs by performing the clear tube test on each carb (which may be performed on the bench or with carbs installed).

As known, adjusting "float heights" to a dry-measured distance often doesn't produce correct actual fuel levels.

Good Fortune!

Patton,

Yes, I meant doing a wet bench-synch on the floats. Make a little jig up to hold the carbs, and check float height with the clear tubes.

Should I use a vacuum gauge also?

Purchased a set of Dyna spark leads and a Dyna S ignition for the bike. I'm hoping it takes away a lot of my cold start issues once I have everything dialed in right. Waiting on picking up a digital speedo until I get some measurements off my stock cluster to see if I can squeeze the digital one in somehow by making a spacer ring. If not, looks like I'll switch over to an Acewll speedo/tach setup.

650mod wrote: Patton,

Yes, I meant doing a wet bench-synch on the floats. Make a little jig up to hold the carbs, and check float height with the clear tubes.

Should I use a vacuum gauge also?

Vacuum gauges (manometer of whatever type) are used to equalize carb vacuums when the engine is at idle rpm, in order to equalize the performance among all cylinders when the engine is at idle rpm.

This may be referred to as a "running sync." When the running sync is completed, the throttle slides will have been readjusted and will no longer be at their exact equal heights as set during the bench sync.
The bench sync serves as the starting point for the later running sync.

In a perfect world where each cylinder is producing the exact same performance level at idle rpm, the throttle slide heights would likely remain very close to equal at conclusion of the running sync.

As known, vacuum isn't involved during clear tube testing and the making of any float tang adjustments that might be required to achieve fuel levels inside the float bowls within specs (usually 3± mm below the carb body).

Good Fortune!

Hoping to get the swingarm mounted up this weekend.

Quick question for everyone though- I'm running a swingarm off a Ninja 900, so it's a bit wider than the 600 swinger. If I needed room to clear the frame, how much of a structural hit would I take if I were to notch the frame on both sides of the swinger by 1/8th of an inch and welded plate steel in to fill the void. Doing so would also give me more free range to clear my frame chain side for the 180mm tire.

Any input is appreciated.

are you going mono shock rear?

leon

that front end looks soooo beefy!!! :lol: lookin great man