Gas tank repair solder or epoxy

YYESSSs...got it running for about 20 seconds...Pleeezzzz need info on my last posts what is that adjustment screw in the pick and how many turns from all the way in should it be...and any other suggestions....

You might want to try posting that in the carburetor forum. Also try a variety of searches on setting up the bs34 carbs, it might be quicker than waiting for a thread response.

thx I will....D

Thats the Idle Mixture screw, about 1/1 2- 2 turns out from seating LIGHTLY. The Pic you posted shows a open vacuum nipple, would be for the air control valve, should be a hose with a T and going over to the #4 carb and up to near the steerin head where the vacuum valve lives. If the system is still there that is, some remove it. Also 1 of the 4 of these vacuum fittings would supply vacuum to the back of the fuel petcock.

This tank was about as bad. Except the holes were on the outside and not underneath. I soldered it and than had it coated on the inside. It will most likely last forever.

About the entire lower third of the tank was solid solder.

Here's the finished project.

Motor Head wrote:

Thats the Idle Mixture screw, about 1/1 2- 2 turns out from seating LIGHTLY. The Pic you posted shows a open vacuum nipple, would be for the air control valve, should be a hose with a T and going over to the #4 carb and up to near the steerin head where the vacuum valve lives. If the system is still there that is, some remove it. Also 1 of the 4 of these vacuum fittings would supply vacuum to the back of the fuel petcock.

Yeah, if your bike is still equipped with the smog equipment, you'll see some hoses attached to the two "D" shaped cover plates on top of your valve cover, and these hoses will go to a control valve in the center, and from that valve, you'll see vacuum hoses that attach to those carb vents (usually #1 & 4). A lot of people remove the smog stuff. It's easy to do. The easiest way is to just pull it out, and then run a short length of hose from one D-cap to the other, on top of the valve cover. If you do that, you need to make sure that you get some of those rubber vacuum port caps to cap off the #1 & 4 vacuum ports (your bike won't run with these open). The #3 port should already be capped. Then connect the #2 port to your petcock to control the fuel flow.

FYI, I think the standard mixture screw setting for that model is 1 1/4 turns out from lightly seated. But that will probably be a little lean. As Motor Head wrote, 1 1/2-2 is a good starting point.

wannaby,

I think there is a place on this site where you can download a factory shop manual. If not, pm me and I will send you a .pdf file of it.

thx guys found some good info on this link here.
TOPIC: Mikuni BS34 info

Did you find a .pdf and download it for a manual?

I filled my tank with water and brazed the rust holes on the bottom. Then coated the inside with that white stuff I can't remember the name of. Bike shops have it.

seems to work fine now