freshen up

ok guys after a back surgery im back at it again only in deeper waters. i have started to dismantle the motor as i have a cracked head were the carb boots mount ot he head. i have a guy thats pretty damn good with aluminum so well see where that goes. but since i was there and all i tore her down some more. the pistons were carboned up a lot as well as the bottom of the valves and the top part of the head where the valves seat. so new rings no problem right. lets go deeper. got the head and the block off and are soaking as we speak. so i went to remove the pistons to remove the carbon soot on the top of the piston. welllllll the wrist pins put up a freaking fight. got them out and the pistons off. ok so heres a question the connecting rods are scored. cylinders 4 3 and 2 are scored right in the middle of the hole on the connecting rod and the wrist pins are scored in the same place. the crank feels good. not much slop. so anyone have some good connecting rods for sale or suggest a good vendor? also i was planning on upgrading to the 1075 kit. now would be the time to do it eh. i guess i just wasnt sure if the connecting rods could be machined and bushed of if thats just plain silly. havent have much luck finding rods. im kind of eyeing the mtc 1075 kit if anyone has some feedback on those guys. not alot of options for machine work around here in the hills so i like the option for them to bore for a hundred bucks. now then on the top end i had good valve clearances when i measured them befroe the transformation began. but i noticed that i had 250 to 255 shims on the exhaust side and 280 to 285 on the intake side i think i got the sides correct. is that normal? forgive me i havent read it in the book yet. how far can u relap the valves before your tolerances are out of range for shimming. hope that makes sence. more pics will follow as im sure more questions as well. oh yeah and will late model z1 28mm carbs be enough for the 1075 kit? am i missing n e thing guys? any and all advise is welcome i would love to ride this year but i think its out of the question unless i can find one to rent for the summer. thanks guys

IMG] i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb207/shag9499/DSC01177.jpg [/img]

pic of broken head before













and after welding

tank after prep on one side before lab metal filler and powder coat




whats left of a cam chain guide




engine after some light cleaning

pistons after removal these were not damaged when removing they were in the bike as is

ok so i am having a friend look at the bike as he used to race the olk kz on the 1/4 before suzuki gave him a sponcership not sure what class he ran. anyway he says the conn rods should be good, and has a friend that has cylinders and piston setup ready to bolt on at 1075 setup. not sure if he has any bigger cams to complete the rebuild from a major parts perspective. hoping to have the metal filler on the tank before the weekend so i can deliver the tank front rim and exhaust system to be powdered. the rim and tank the same as the rear rim prismatic black. the exhaust will be a more flat black ceramic powder good for exhausts. i have seen on ebay a place to get a complete gasket set has anyone seen this and purchased from them? looking into a yuck harley davidson v rod wind factory wind screen as to if it will mount up or not, a second option is the ducati carbon fiber one i see on ebay once in a while. has anyone tried to simplify thier wireing system with any success. i hate all the dang wires that are on the frame and in the headlight bucket. dont want to lose anything but was wondering if in 30 years someone has simplified it. see ya

Keep chuggin' away, you're doing great.
-KR
PS> What suspension plans do you have?

thanks bad. not sure yet. i have tossed around a few of the suspension mods some of the guys on here have done ie vulcan shocks, progressive lowering blocks. havent seen any lowering blocks that look decent but i have a bud at work with a set of progressive shocks that i may try out. im looking to drop the rear by 1 or a lil more. any ideas? always open to suggestions.

I hear good things about using vulcan springs. As for the wiring, I have not seen any aftermarket harnesses or diagrams but it might be something you can do for yourself. Or send wiredgeorge a pm about it, he might be able to design something for you.

should have the progressive shocks to see what it will take and what the final result will be. engine guy should be here tonight to see whats up with the 1075 swap and a few other odds and ends questions i have for him.

well still no shocks to size up bit have made some other progress. put the first layer of lab metal on the tank tonight to fill in the dents. got the con rods cleaned up so the wrist pins will fit. so what to do what to do. well lets see what treasures we can find in the oil pan. looking for whats left of that cam chain guide. will i find it stay tuned lol





not a good pic but u can see all the little chunks in the
pan





now this pic shows some pieces of the pistons that im not exactly sure how they got there. i want to believe that the po did it. i had rags stuffed in the crankcase to ensure no debris made it in there while removeing the pistons. and i dont remeber us hitting the pistons while driving out the pins but im human. it also shows whats left of the cam chain guide. lots chunks down there in the pan. the oil pump screen had lots of little pieces stuck in it. assuming its lots of pieces of ground up guide.




closer pic of the guide. looking like ill run out of money or time to get her on the road this summer but well see.