Clutch Rebuild

Hello everybody, I’m new here. Name is Tyler, picked up my first KZ750 H a few weeks ago, been reading on these forums for a bit trying to gain knowledge and decided to make a profile. I’m having a real hard time finding all the parts I need to rebuild the clutch, it’s starting to slip a little in second. Was hoping somebody in here could let me know how many clutch plates friction plates I’d need etc.. 

Are you sure the clutch is the problem? If you are using an automotive engine oil, it can cause clutch slipping because of the friction modifiers. 
Are you absolutely sure the clutch cable has been properly adjusted? There are three adjustment points that must be done in the proper order.
I would still measure the clutch plates to be absolutely sure they need to be replaced. The factory clutch is surprisingly robust and rarely needs replacement.

If the clutch plates really need replacing, Webike likely has the best deal on the factory parts.

Ron Ayers says six steel and seven friction plates, but I would confirm with the factory service manual.

www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/kaw/5fff5ad0...lutch-81-83-h2-h3-h4

Service manual

www.kzrider.com/modules/ServiceManuals/KZ750E1&H1.pdf

Many times, all you need is new OEM springs.  If that fails, new friction plates first.  OEM are great, but expensive.  EBC is a good option.  I recommend the standard model, with what looks like cork friction material.  They make more exotic discs, but you don't need them for a common 750

I have adjusted it at the lever, at the locknut on the cable and the locknut on the case. I ended up maxing the cable out, but the clutch works and grabs like it should now, it seems to be pretty old if not an original cable so I just ordered a new one. As far as I’ll I changed it when I got it with 10w40 semi synthetic Lucas oil jaso compliant formulated for wet clutches along with a k&n oil filter. It’s still colder in the morning where I’m at, after we get more into summer I’ll be planning on jumping up to 20w50. 

When you install the new cable, be sure to start the adjustments at the engine first, then the other adjusters as described in the manual. The order matters.

I really appreciate all the help. I took my time with the bike running and adjusted everything starting at the motor with my new cable, still having the same issue. Got new ebc friction plates and springs on the way, I figured since I’m gonna have it opened up to put new springs in I might as well put new friction plates in as well. I didn’t want to spend the extra 100 bucks for the steel plates right now if they don’t need to be replaced. Are the steel plates common for wear as much as the friction plates?