HI Lowbuck, yes sure Ill have to take a few pics for you
Im going to get the bike back together and on the road this week end. Ive just fitted fuel injection to it and have it running but havnt had it on the road yet to start the tuning
I have a few pics that are a few years old that I will put on for now.
The bike is a Z650 B2 with 3 spoke mags ( 17" front and 18" rear)
Front end:- Z650 forks Lengthened fork tubes - Fzr 1000 yokes - home made fork brace 4 pot calipers and floating discs - fibreglass mudguard.
Rear end:- gsx1100 swingarm - mullholland shocks - fibregalss guard.

Let me know if theres anything else youd like to know

Cheers

Dave

HI Lowbuck, yes sure Ill have to take a few pics for you
Im going to get the bike back together and on the road this week end. Ive just fitted fuel injection to it and have it running but havnt had it on the road yet to start the tuning
I have a few pics that are a few years old that I will put on for now.
The bike is a Z650 B2 with 3 spoke mags ( 17" front and 18" rear)
Front end:- Z650 forks Lengthened fork tubes - Fzr 1000 yokes - home made fork brace 4 pot calipers and floating discs - fibreglass mudguard.
Rear end:- gsx1100 swingarm - mullholland shocks - fibregalss guard.

Let me know if theres anything else youd like to know

Cheers

Dave

I just recently picked up a brand new 04 zx6r swingarm monoshock and caliper and i want to retro fit it on my L3 i havent seen much on this board regarding the L3 so i dont even really no how to do the conversion.

will i have to machine the swingarm? will i need new bearings? if anyone has any info about this conversion on an "kz750L3" PLEASE post!!....

Allow me to introduce myself to this website. I am from Eau Claire, Wisconsin. A year ago I purchased a '79KZ650SR from my local dealer. It was their shop bike, whatever that is. I wanted something completely different that my '94 Gold Wing and the KZ is. No big fairing, a kickstarter, and light enough to pick up and push. Have added the grab bar, a right side cover, an original manual, and stock headlight and handlebar mounted turn signals. Added Amsoil brand oil. Bike needed new swing arm bushings which improved the ride. Everything is stock except for the seat. Left side cover needs painting. Looking for a hook wrench to adjust the rear shocks. Next spring will have the valves adjusted, oil filter leaks stopped, and a new coil installed. The tachometer also stopped working--suspect a brittle line. Am glad there is a site such as this. Will send picture soon. Thanks!

That's a good idea. I went with mega motor before refining the brakes and handling. I would also suggest the frame bracing, 18" front wheel, new swingarm bushings, and longer shocks. You'd be amazed at how they can actually handle. Ebos sells Tomcat's pipes which I highly recommend.

put some good tires on it ,ditch the old worn out shocks they were outdated in 1976 .try a swingarm off a 77 or newer kz they have needle bearings instead of bushings,if you can find one with the double bearings on each side thats even better and put the rear disk brake on it while your at it.put a set of tapered bearings in the steering head while your at it.this should make a vast improvement in the handling,this is what i meant by letting your bike evolve over a period of time instead of just bolting in some big mountain and finding your self in trouble at 125 .it takes time,but youll get there!!good luck

PJ1 is the worst crap there is. Not trying to start an argument, just my own experience. It goes on the chain real thin like oil then hardens up. This all sounds great, but the truth is after it hardens it is impossible to clean and the lubricating abilitys are zero. I'll lead into one of my stories here, take it or leave it Since about 1970 I always used a chain lube called "BG White Lightning". I always liked it because it goes on as a foam and really gets into the chain and lubricates it great. The "bad" part, if you can call it bad, is Yes it does fling off some, but the "good" part is after it flings off a dry rag takes it right off your wheel, sprocket, frame ect. What I do is spray the chain then wipe it with a dry rag to get off any excess, then after a ride a dry rag on the rest of the bike and you're good as new.
Once I was riding a nearly new GPZ1100 from Colorado to Connecticut and my chain lube fell off on the road and I lost it, stopped in a motorcycle shop, got some PJ1 since that's all they had and proceded down the highway. I rode the last 3500 miles of the trip using PJ1 and on top of the motorcycle being absolutely disgusting with caked on crap that took hours to remove, my chain was completely shot, stretched about 3 complete lines on the swingarm adjusters in those miles. Motorcycle had about 10,000 miles on it. Some may say 10,000 out of a chain is "normal". I get 40,000-60,000 out of every chain I've ever run on a KZ except the PJ1 lubed chain. Coincidence? I don't think. Look for BG chain lube, I hope it's still available.

Sure, I know a well-lubed chain is essential for proper m/c operation.
But a well-lubed chain is dust/dirt magnet. It slings grease all over my rim, frame, & swing arm.
I pulled my front sprocket cover a few weeks ago (something I obviously should do more often). What a MESS. I had to dig the clotted grease/grime out with a screwdriver.
Does anyone have a formula to get a dirty chain clean? Do I have to remove it and soak it in some kind of solvent/degreaser?

I admit I'm kind of nut about keeping her clean, but a clean bike sure does turn heads.

If I can get the chain cleaned up, I'll try chain wax or something that doesnt sling so much. Right now, I'm using PJ1.

wireguy wrote:

if you want to be practical,park your bike and buy a volvo! try a nitrous system it only works when you hit the button

Post edited by: wireguy, at: 2005/11/18 03:27<br><br>Post edited by: wireguy, at: 2005/11/18 03:27

ya if hes got alot of money.... wet kits arent cheap..


lighter rims, swingarm, aftermarket spockets, better chain, exhuast, bigger jets, filter pods, better coils, plug wires, plugs

those are just sum of the bolt ons. u can also was port the head, bored the motor, cams, turbo

do us all a favor and take it to a shop that does motorcycle frames ,not the local blacksmith with the torch and 4x4.you need to get this bike srtapped down and leveled before you can measure or cut anything the top tube and the two sidetubes under the tank get cut and that big gusset from the downtubes to the steeringhead gets sliced to allow the downtubes to be pulled back as they are heated ,you need to keep a protractor on the steering head and a level on frame to make sure things are straight be careful heating the lower tubes or they will kink when they pull back.be careful not to get the frame too hot while welding as to warp it .if you keep it down to about 2-3 degrees you should still be able to muscle your way around city streets,if go much more you might want to consider truck driver training school because thats how it will steer,if you just want to hold the front end down try a gs1100e swingarm theyre 2"over and can be stretched to 3" with a longer chain,thats a lot easier and you can change it back easy.Hope this helps,good luck