My GS1100 aluminum swingarm is only 2" longer than the stock KZ650 swingarm.
I was going to use the 900 swingarm but after taking areally close look I saw the 900 swingarm was no stronger than the 650 one so I went with the GS one.
Handles MUCH better now. And it looks great.
It doesn't take much to install either. Just 1.8" washers on both sides and it's in using the stock swingarm bolt.
Here is a link to mine.
kzrider.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=11890

Post edited by: baldy110, at: 2006/01/08 22:32

Steell, The 920 motor is just my Z-1 motor. Limited by rules to 930cc with unlimited carbs. or 1025 with 29mm smoothbores. I stuck with 29's, however. Crank was balanced and blue printed by Falicon, Ported by Star Racing, Pistons were 67mm JE 12:1 custom, Cams are Web hard welded grind 125. Which has 435 lift and 288 duration. Heavy Duty springs and shim under bucket. Carbs are Keihin CR's running velocity stacks. Frame was fully gusseted and has 2003 Kawasaki ZR-7 front end 41mm forks and 17" wheels, with emulators and 1.0 kilo springs. Rear shocks are progressive full adj, ride height 16", rear swingarm is braced and gusseted. Bike shows no sign of frame flex. Hope you build one.

I just swapped engines in a 900 by myself. It was harder to pull the old engine as I didn't do any disassembly and I assembled the new engine in the frame. The 900 engine is about 225 lbs with all the stuff on it...

In any case, couple of hints... listen to folks who tell you to replace all bearings. Use roller bearings in steering stem, swingarm and use NEW wheel bearings. It makes the bike handle so much better! The bearings are relatively cheap! Second tip is to take off the wiring harness and unwrap it and look for surprises underneath! Clean it up and make sure everything is connected as it should be and no bare wires and then rewrap it in electrical tape. I know it is a chore but having a reliable bike makes life a lot more fun! Clean the connectors good and pack with dielectic grease. As you finish sections of the clean up of the wires, wrap a little tape to keep that section together and then do a final wrap over the whole thing.

Thanks for the tips. I have already had the motor out before (did it without help and carried it around, I didn't think it was THAT heavy (maybe I'm just stronger than I thought!)), replaced rings and several valves (don't ask).

Yeah, the air box will NOT come out the side of the frame, I tried.

Already switched the stem bearings to tapered, and planned on ordering swingarm bearings.

I think I'm using Fleet Farm Implement paint for everything. I should be able to get good results, and a pretty durable finish at the same time. Cheap too, about $8 a quart, if I remember right!

A few random hints:
You have to remove the rear wheel to get the airbox out.
That motor is heavy! ~180 lbs.
When you remove the front fork ball bearings are going to go everywhere, replace them with tapered bearings.
Plan on replacing the swingarm bearings, seems like no one ever greases it.
Upgrade to dual front disk using 650/1000 rotors and calipers, the rotors off dual disk bikes are thinner.
Most of the rubber parts are still available from Kawasaki.
Your front master cylinder is already 5/8" but rebuild kits are not available.
My 750 project is going to be black with silver frame, so don't do that
The brake pedal can be a real bear to remove.

I have done several 750 twins, so if you have any questions feel free to ask

Posted by twowheeledterror on 14-5-2005 at 07:06 PM:

I've got a 1999 GSXR 750 inverted from end with the 52mm fork tubes. Thats going on too. And funny thing is, the stems are almost identical between the GSXR750 and the KZ650, so it's an easy swap.

kzrider.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=23714&page=1

kzrider.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=20893

Mark Wings KZ650 thread:
www.kzrider.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=9561

kzrider.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=3882

There is a lot more info on this site about 1000 swaps than there is about 650 swaps, but maybe those will give you some ideas.

Post edited by: steell, at: 2006/01/05 09:32

I would look at a gusset welded at headtube, a cross piece between front downtubes and really thick engine mount plates. The bikes are old (tech wise) and frame flex on round tube frames is an issue, especially with high HP motors. Don't recall any major issues with 650 flexing too too bad. A Z1 style steering dampener should suffice. Swingarms are the same issue being simple round tube. Ensure your swingarm pivot busshing are good, same with steering head bearings.

Hmm I wonder how the rear rim from the zx6 will look with the front spoke rim????:blink: Oh well I guess that is the next project after I assemble the rear swinger on the frame. I might not get to it till next year, I figure it can wait. The more time it takes me to put it together the better it will look:laugh:.
Besides I'm going to make sure I have every thing before taking my bike appart. I figure I'll be putting it all together, every piece I get till the whole rear section is put together, as would be on the bike in working order. Then when winter hits I have a 35' x 30' area in the basement where i'll be fabing up every thing. When summer arives I'll get it outside do a quik spray can on all that I welded and ride. This way I have all summer to ride and work out any bugs. Then you guessed it back appart when winter hits and to the paint shop.
It will take two years but it will be well worth it.
Accually I have the colors picked already. Its a color I came up with when messing around in a friends body shop. It has 12 colors 2 pigments and a whole bunch of pearl and no metalic. Its about $175 a quart:blink: :huh: Top it off with a Matrix clear.

mpaquet4 wrote:

Well the inexpense of the proposition, I have to admit, is this project's second most motivating factor. As far as fab skills, I'm not too scared to get out of the gate on anything cars or bikes related. Although just knowing there's a front end out there like the zx/zr7 that will virtually bolt up is nearly enough to scrap project cheapo, and turn my wallet upside down fo some usd action. The ideal swinger has gotta be that zrx...that thing is hot! Although singlesides are nice too! Anyway...what was so attractive about the katana stuff was how complete the project is for 350 bucks. Front and Swing comes with everything from brake master to rubber.

There's nothing that "virtually bolts right up". If there were front ends that did and were worth it, everyone and their mother would have it.

I just like realism, and realistically this isn't just an afternoon project. You've got a lot of work ahead of you to do it right, and that's just to get it technically correct for safety reasons.

Also, if you have to ask questions about wether or not this or that will fit and how it's done, I don't recommend trying to fit a single. Yes, they are nice, but there's a reason not a lot of them are mounted to these bikes. :lol:

Good luck in your adventures! Pics are always welcome.

Well the inexpense of the proposition, I have to admit, is this project's second most motivating factor. As far as fab skills, I'm not too scared to get out of the gate on anything cars or bikes related. Although just knowing there's a front end out there like the zx/zr7 that will virtually bolt up is nearly enough to scrap project cheapo, and turn my wallet upside down fo some usd action. The ideal swinger has gotta be that zrx...that thing is hot! Although singlesides are nice too! Anyway...what was so attractive about the katana stuff was how complete the project is for 350 bucks. Front and Swing comes with everything from brake master to rubber.