makes a big differance. the gs1100e is what you want. the others are steel swing arms like what you already have or some of them are set upfor shaft. did it have a picture so you could look at it?

I found a swing arm and actually purchased it, but when the guy recieved my payment with instructions, he e-mailed me to tell me the swing was from a gs100L not a gs100E. Does this make a huge difference? Are the arms the same?

Oh and what about tarozzi rear sets has anyone used them

And there use to be a yellow Z1 or Kz on here that had an muray x pipe (which I'm still trying to find/ extended swingarm/ dragbars (which I'm still trying to figure out how to do) and very very clean does anyone know where to find pics or how to find a thread that the pics use to be on? The pics are before and after pics like the bike was black and painted yellow, and the pics had his kid on the bike. The reason for asking I think he had to go through the same things I'm going through!

Thanks again,
Mike

My brother did the same thing you are trying to do years ago. He had a spacer machined that was 5/8 thick and mounted it between the sprocket and the hub. Then just get some Grade 8 bolts that are 5/8" longer. I think he ground on the head some to make then fit (the stock heads are square I believe). He was mounting a 7" dragslick to his rim and it worked great. For the brake arm, he bent a steel bar to shape to fit where it needed to go. This is where fabrication comes in. Each bike will be a little different so you will have to build it to fit YOUR bike set-up. If you bend the bar, be sure not to have any 90 degree bends as they will be a weak place to keep bending. Keep an angle to the bends. All it has to do is reach a place on your swingarm to connect to. It doesn't have to be long. I have a brake arm on my bike that's only about 8"-9" long. It's made out of a double-threaded pipe-threaded at both ends so it can be adjusted in/out from either end to fit. Don't have any pictures for ya as this bike is gone and he did this years ago.

Alright here are some pics of the things I've been describing I will try to take some better ones tonight of the wheel on the bike to show some of the other problems!

Oh and Bob_z1 I live in Severna Park MD, it's nere Annapolis and 20 minutes from Baltimore. I can travel as well. So if you wanted to see what's going on that would be cool.

The bike has never been this dirty and there a few spots of rust like on the rear brake rod piece and some on the rear foot pegs (which are chrome) don't know why it's doing that unless not riding is the cause, but everyones help that may change soon. Thanks again,
Mike













this is a pic of where my brake arm is hitting the swingarm any suggestions?




Post edited by: steell, at: 2006/09/19 08:29

Here is my 2 cents. On the GPZ1100 swingarm you are still dealing with small round tubing which is not very rigid. The GS1100E swingarm is boxed aluminum, much stronger and resists bending under load. If it was mine I would use the GS.

I'm considering taking a different route with the swingarm mods for my Z1 project. I currently have a GS1100E swingarm mounted with shims. I also have a rear wheel from a ZX6E.
Due to lack of funds, I'm thinking about going with a swingarm from a 1982 GPZ1100 (which I already have, along with a rear wheel). My current dilemma :whistle: :laugh: is that the GPZ swingarm is about 1mm wider than the opening on the Z1 frame. My question to you fabricators is how do you suggest I trim the gpz arm; ie. what tool is recommended? Another thing to consider is the spacers that the pivot bolt rides in that the needle bearings contact. Those 2 pieces are obvioulsy hardened steel. How would I go about cutting them?
There will be other questions, but many thanks for your response to this one.
Jim

Things to look for:

1. drain gas and look for rust in the tank. If there is surface rust, flush the tank with a phosphoric acid solution to deaden the rust and then refil the tank with gas (after flushing at least once with gas and blowing it dry with compressed air). Use an inline gas filter
2. replace the carburtor intake manifolds
3. buy a manual and go through the tune up and lubrications steps... all of them.
4. check compression to ensure it is within spec
5. lubricate mechanical ignition timing advance assembly
6. change brake fluid and check brake pads
7. replace cables if ends are fraying and lubricate thoroughly, if they are in good shape.
8. lubricate swingarm and steering head bearings
9. replace tires even if they still look great; old rubber cracks! Replace the tubes (if installed with tubes) and rim strips.
10. open up electrical connectors; clean with spray contact cleaner and apply dielectic grease

Although many of the components will look fine, the age mandates replacement for safety reasons. With a little TLC, sounds like you have scored a great deal.

A light 'feel' is OK. SLOPPY is NOT OK. Head bearings, soft front OR rear tire, sloppy swing arm bushings, loose motor mounts. Bad spokes. Worn handle bar rubber bushings...Wait, this isn't an xs650.

-Duck

Thank you. No pics with me at work; when I get home I will post some over the weekend. Only major problems were fitting the BS36 carbs, and machining and welding spacers, to fit the swingarm. The GPz B1 model head has such long intake runners that the petcock will not clear the carb tops/bodies. Replaced with a J model head that I ported myself....not really so difficult. The swingarm spacers carry the needle bearings and are also internally grooved for o-rings. The swingarm was free from another riding buddy, and the machining was a trade with yet another riding buddy, so it was a no-brainer. Cheaper than a Kosman or Trac Dynamics.