531blackbanshee wrote:

jmoney05 wrote: Ok so I just got a sweet deal on a 2002 Gsxr 600 swingarm which is polished to match the wheels I picked up. Better candidate for my application because it has no top support..
So I spent last night at work making new swingarm pivot bushings so I can use the stock pivot bolt from the kz!

Attachment image_2014-07-16-7.jpg not found

nice looking top hat bushings .
are running your bearings directly on the bushings?

leon

while the stainless isn't as hard as the hardened bushing you replaced they will prolly work just fine.
what i am wondering is what you are going to do to keep the tophats from binding when you tighten the swingarm pivot bolt?
because without a bushing between them to set the preload they will bind on the ends of the pivot tube.
just a heads up.
hth,

leon

Yes Leon , the bearings that are pressed into the swingarm my bushings ride on the bearings. Replacing the sleeves that were in there.

jmoney05 wrote: Ok so I just got a sweet deal on a 2002 Gsxr 600 swingarm which is polished to match the wheels I picked up. Better candidate for my application because it has no top support..
So I spent last night at work making new swingarm pivot bushings so I can use the stock pivot bolt from the kz!

Attachment image_2014-07-16-7.jpg not found

nice looking top hat bushings .
are running your bearings directly on the bushings?

leon

The back wheel arrived, I took it to my local bike shop and he put an old tire on it for me ,for the mock-up.

Fitted a pair of top notch Ohlins M.D.F hardtail shocks to get the stance right.


I have no idea how Im going to get this to work. An early model GSXR wheel with a 180 tire in a GS1100e swingarm!!
Ive read a lot of threads here on back-end conversions using a GS1100 arm but I havent found anyone putting a GSXR wheel in it yet. If youre out there, let me know cause Im stumped.
I expected a bit of farting around to shimmy bits here and spacer bits there with maybe even an offset front sproket but looking at it now,I just dont see it working. Ok,I havent really jumped into it yet,this is just a first impression and the wheel will physically fit but it looks like itll have to be so far back in the arm that there will be no room for tensioning the chain.

No Idea!

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationA friend of mine wanted the KZ750, so I let him have it.


I'm going to use this 1979 LTD now, with the rear wheel and forks off z1wiz's 1982 police bike in the background.

Side note: My engine serial numbers are 300 below the serial number range listed for this year.
(1979 LTD1000) Engine KZT00AE0812** Frame KZT00B-5193**

Frame No. Range KZTOOB-515537 - 523543
Engine No. Range KZTOOAE081569 - 090730
Engine No. Location RH top crankcase, below carburetor
Cylinder Mark 1.015L
Cylinder Mark Location Front RH corner
Engine Type 4-stroke, 4-cylinder, DOHC, Air cooled
Bore X Stroke 70.0 X 66.0 mm
Compression Ratio 8.7:1
Maximum HP 86 at 8000 rpm
Maximum Torque 8.5 kg-m at 6500 rpm

1982 KZ1000P rims

Side note: I didn't want to use gators on the front forks, so I ordered a cheap set of Pyramid Dust Boots off of ebay for a 78-81 KZ1000 C POLICE bike. (1/3 the price of Kawasaki)
You could also order dust boots for a 81-83 KZ1000 J bike from Kawasaki. Part number 92093-1051, or cross reference another part number from my fork chart below.

I stripped the LTD down a little. Dug out my GS1000 swingarm and stuck a old 76 KZ900 seat and side covers on it.

Side note: I was missing the bushings, thrust washers and the swingarm dust covers.
z1wiz gave me these parts from a gs1000. The only part that isn't the same is the dust cover and that part number is. 61262-49201 (82-83 SUZ GS1100 swingarm)

I found the 78-81 KZ1000C upper and lower triple tree


and a 80 KZ1300 front rim to finish my mockup.


Side note: When trying to figure out what parts would work for my build I used this chart.

Here's all the KZ-1000 fork sizes:

36 Kawasaki KZ-1000A1-A4 (77-80)
36 Kawasaki KZ-1000D1/ D3 "Z1-R" (78, 80)

38 Kawasaki KZ-1000C1-C4 "Police" (78-81)
38 Kawasaki KZ-1000J1-J3 (81-83)
38 Kawasaki KZ-1000K1/K2 "Ltd" (81-82)
38 Kawasaki KZ-1000P1-P20 "Police" (82-01)

40 Kawasaki KZ-1000E1/E2 "ST/Shaft" (79-80)




I'm building this sorta like how mjg15 did his GPZ
www.kzrider.com/forum/11-projects/397729...l=component&type=raw
I really like the stance of his frame with those rims.

I'm also taking in my old KZ900 seat to Mumford's upholstery

and going to have them recover it like this seat.

Ok so I just got a sweet deal on a 2002 Gsxr 600 swingarm which is polished to match the wheels I picked up. Better candidate for my application because it has no top support..
So I spent last night at work making new swingarm pivot bushings so I can use the stock pivot bolt from the kz!

tk11b40 wrote: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:

That was about 8 hours of troubleshooting. I kept thinking "it can't be the handlebar switch, that thing is brand new !!"

Never take anything for granted.
...

I know what you mean. I installed new rebuild kits in a set of carbs and tried them out. One of the needle / seats wasn't sealing. Took it apart again and there was a big metal chip in there! Brand new....still should have checked it.

Lights look cool!

:woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:

That was about 8 hours of troubleshooting. I kept thinking "it can't be the handlebar switch, that thing is brand new !!"

Never take anything for granted.

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

All fixed !! it was the broken orange common wire inside the handlebar switch. I hope the forum does not mind foul language..but that was a bitch to figure out, soldering it was also very interesting. Wooo- hoo glad that is over.



If you are wiring up LED lights here is the way my LED flasher is hooked up to the stock KZ:

I need some Scotch now....

I am not into dogging the vendors that support our hobby. But never take anything for granted, so I decided to dis-assemble my brand new turn signal switch..and look what I find. The orange wire is common to both left and right, it provides power when switch from let to right.

Orange wire was just inside the switch housing floating about, no longer connected to the directional switch. I will now re-solder this and see if it works.