This next post starts with one part, a rubber boot between the swing arm and transmission that covers the drive shaft u-joint. It is clearly torn and needed to be replaced.



This part is impossible to find, I had been searching most of the summer for one. I ended up buying a complete rear end for the bike, swing arm, drive shaft, final drive, pivot bearings, etc. to get a boot in good shape. The parts were cheap the whole lot set me back about $75 with shipping. I thought I could resell some extra parts.... turns out I need them all. When I finally got the swing arm off I found the prop shaft tunnel had filled with water. The drive shaft U joint is toast, the tapered bearing for the swing arm pivot was frozen and the swing arm had rusted so badly the bearing race had broken loose. The whole swing arm is pretty much junk.







Some things must happen for a reason because now I have all of the parts to fix this mess.

I started with the good old thick black rubber fuel line. I did not like it, there are too many bends. So I went to Summit and bought this:

helixracingproducts.com/index.php/helix-all-fuel.html

pucks71 wrote: What kind of fuel line are you using there? No clamps and colors!! looks great.
k

Looks like push-loc hose available from Earl, Russel, Summit Racing, Fragola, Jegs, etc....

Cory

What kind of fuel line are you using there? No clamps and colors!! looks great.
k

two Russell 40 micron filters ... That should help.

Awesome build, following it forever. Although you sound like a bass-head keeping track of every gram xD As a racer I know how much every little bit adds to your P/W ratio. It's nice to see someone taking these classics to their potential and beyond

If you have your tank painted make sure you don't get all excited when it is time to start up and forget to clean the inside of the gas tank. I just spent a couple hours removing the brand new flat slides, and cleaning some kind of black goop out of them. It was a very small amount, just enough to totally plug two pilot jets. just sayin'.

I have to assume it was sanding dust inside the tank, then mixed with gasoline. I am now putting on two very fine fuel filters, followed by a tank rinse that I should have done the day I got it back from the painter.

:ohmy:

tk11b40 wrote: Well I finally sorted out the gage lighting issue. the 75 KZ has a single turn signal indicator light in the gage cluster, the 76 LTD 900 has a left and right indicator. I am using 76 LTD gages. Before I discovered this, when I plugged the two wires (grey and green) into the bikes 9 pin, the turn signals would get real wacky. I don't understand it totally but at least its sorted out now.

The turnsignals were back-feeding through the indicator light. A couple simple diodes might fix the problem.

Later, Doug

Well I finally sorted out the gage lighting issue. the 75 KZ has a single turn signal indicator light in the gage cluster, the 76 LTD 900 has a left and right indicator. I am using 76 LTD gages. Before I discovered this, when I plugged the two wires (grey and green) into the bikes 9 pin, the turn signals would get real wacky. I don't understand it totally but at least its sorted out now.

So I pulled the left and right wires out of the 9 pin connector, I will make jumpers from the turn signals themselves to get that to work right. I already tried it with temporary jumpers.

Everything works now, just waiting to collect enough cash to buy some headlight brackets.

wow....that rear looks awesome...Carbs even better :woohoo: